What does a PCV do in Katsepy?

Salama daholo! Ino voavoa? Maresaka? I'm a little bummed, because I had some awesome pictures to post of my garden, house, and of Peace Corps Volunteer me, but due to a certain lacking usb port on this ancient computer, photos are a no-go. So you'll have to settle for using your imagination...my carrots, radishes, cucumbers and beans are about yah-tall and my lettuce and melons are just poking their heads out of the ground against a backdrop of rich green rice paddies, mango and coconut tress; my house is a little bunglow sort with red windows and door, tin and wood siding and tin roof; and I'm pretty much the same, except with noteably wilder hair, a wicked tan, and according to my villagers (they say this with pride), a little bit plumper - I'm not sure I agree with this last statement, but perhaps I should cut back on the coconut enhanced rice, bread and kabaka (side dishes) :) and up the number of bikerides I take to the district lighthouse where I catch the breeze up high and chill with my fellow primates, the family of six sifaka that live in the baobob trees there.

So, I believe last post I promised a lowdown on my 'job' there, so here goes:
1. I garden, experimenting with new vegetables not yet grow in my region and with techiniques not yet used. My plot is quite large, and I'm slowly preparing the soil and adding raised bed after raised bed, so it is definitely a work in progress and I've much to learn still. But, I've already had the joy to discover that I, in fact, love gardening! Totally intimidated at first, both by the techniques and the amount of physical labor input needed, now I'm thrilled to spend the day in my garden watering my new little plants and working the soil. All that, and hopefully in a couple months I'll have all sorts of organically homegrown veges! Did I mention a big part of PC for me is reducing my ecological footprint on the earth...well, there you go!
2. Solar cooking and drying project. I've already built a very simple solar cooker with some cardboard, glue and aluminum foil that cooks like a dream...I've already impressed my neighbors by baking bread, cooking rice and even beans! That crazy shiney thing in my yard really does serve a function. And I can't think of anything more practical in this incredibly sunny, hot, haven't seen rain yet home of mine. I'm also in the process of building a solar dryer in anticipation for the mango season. Next step, cooking 'class' with the town women's association and a demonstration at the town's big festival next month.
3. Teaching. In September, when school starts again, I will officially begin my environmental education program at the town elementary and middle school, with plans for a school garden/tree nursery, and hopes to start a science/nature club. Along with teaching gardening techniques and introducing new and delicious veges :), I will be doing ecology and conservation lessons, all with a little bit of english (what I get asked on a daily basis to teach). Any lesson plan ideas, advice from those already experienced at teaching, etc, please do share. I'm already starting to plan a bit. In addition to the youngsters, I'll probably be holding English classes maybe once a week for interested adults too.
4. Geography/Map project! Not an official project, just something on the side I'd like to do and would love your, yes you!, help with. I've got a giant map of the world and bunch of kids who don't know about much outside of Katsepy but are interested in learning - all that's missing are pictures of the world to share with them! So next time you run across some cool photos of people, landscape, culture of the world (even including ridiculous American pop culture) in your lastest issue of National Geographic or US Weekly, please think of the 'poor children of Madagascar' and send 'em my way (it'd be great too if you'd also think of your poor friend Tara who misses you terribly and send a letter update along with the pics :)). Thanks everyone...I think this would be really cool and definitely more exciting for the kids to look at than me eating dinner (which they frequently stop by in the evenings to do...yes, Americans can eat rice too).
5. Misc. development projects. UNICEF is looking at funding a youth center in Katsepty, a group of dentists will be visiting the town next month (armed with toothbrushes and anti-decay whatever I hope...this group is headed up by a non-dentist who none-the-less frequently finds the need to use dental tools I imagine as he prepares his Madagascar fossils and someone who I hope to be working with often over the next two years, paleontologist David Krause...check out the Ankizy Fund for more info), and the next town over has a local bird conservation effort underway that focuses not only on wildlife protection but also youth education. Perfect!

***Disclaimer...this is where I start to get a little wordy...read at your leisure, maybe with a cup of tea to stay focused...okay, good luck!***

So, getting the idea yet? Honestly, I frequently find my head overflowing with all sorts of ideas, including girl's club, a library, ecotourism, but I have to keep reminding myself to slow down and focus on the basics, such as what the heck is Peace Corps and why exactly is this little white girl living with us...I'm pretty sure that piece of me is still a big question mark for my community. They know they like me, but why I'm farming vegetables and transplanting rice, hmmm.... :) Fortunately, while my Malagasy is steadily improving, at this point it is still an effective barrier against letting myself get carried away. That said, the potential for projects here in Katsepy is immense. Within the next month I will begin holding meetings with community members and farmers to determine where felt needs and desires lie and begin to prioritize these needs to insure that my work here is the most efficient and effective it can be. Also, the stronger the involvement and enthusiasm for a project from the community, the more sustainable, and hopefully longlasting the project will be. I'm valuing of myself less as a teacher (because honestly, how could I possibly hold anywhere near the amount of knowledge as a local farmer or community member) and more as a venue for new innovations and techniques that can be used to improve/modify existing techniques, and as an experimentor who can afford to take risks and make mistakes while learning (although I'm living relatively simply on about $200-300 a month, this is still a fortune compared to the avg Katsepy family). The village is poor, the children are malnourished, the school is not a simulating or encouraging learning environment, and the landscape, while beautiful is heavily degraded. And yet the people are happy, among the most friendly and welcoming I've ever met, always willing to share a meal, sit and talk, patiently teach me new words, braid my white girl hair (and yes, I do in fact look ridiculous in cornrows, but the town loves it and it is cool social 'event'). I have much to learn from my community (already have learned how to cook just about anything with cococut, gut and descale a fish, appreciate just sitting and watching, and the kids have taught me how to make these cool little balls and 'windmills' out of grass that result in all sorts of fun games). I only hope that I can in return equally teach, share, and enrich their lives and in particular encourage and educate youngsters so they can become the next motivators within the community.

Okay, I'm getting long winded and carried away again...these are big hopes for someone who can just barely hold a full-on Malagasy conversation, but I'm already feeling a sense of trust and acceptance from my community that is incredible. I have a couple ladies who I believe are becoming real friends, my favorite lady (who gives me papaya and home-made honey) has become Mama ani'Tara (women here are named after their oldest daughter) or to me, mamako Malagasy (my Malagasy mom), and if I don't walk my usually circuit for even one day, the next day everyone is like, ' Hey Tara! Where have you been-I haven't seen you in so long!'. I think they've come to expect me passing by and I have to admit nothing makes me happier than seeing a friend's face light up when they see me wander past and we spend the next few minutes catching up on the news for the day. A favorite moment... One day a lot (4) of vazaha (foreigners) were in town, and I was commenting on this to one of my Malagasy friends, informing her that although these were probably the people I had the most in common with in town, I couldn't speak a word to them! They were all French, didn't speak English (or Malagasy :)), and my French sucks to put it mildly. She laughed and said, 'Don't worry, you're only a vazaha on the outside cause you're white, on the inside, you're Malagasy'. Oh, my goodness, does it get better than that? (Do hope so...I've still go 22 months here. :))

And then just as I'm feeling comfortable and settled, inevitable something unexpected, bizarre and unique happens to remind me that I'm indeed in Madagascar where life is totally different and even the most ordinary experiences can occur in the most extraordinary setting...drinking tea from my thermos at the base of the lighthouse constructed by the French some time ago, still in use and powered by solar panels (which are protected from goats by a dilapitated fence of tree branches and grass rope) while I overlook a small grass hut village on the edge of a white sand beach facing the Mozambique Channel. And vice versa, where the most usual everyday event can occur in the craziest way...buying meat (there is a story for you one day) or my ferry ride across the bay to Mahajanga yesterday, where I probably could have lifted my feet and remained in place it was so crowded...sandwiched between about a 5 people, a basket full of chickens, a few loose ones, and a bicycle with a dead pig (not joking) tied to the back made it hands down the most entertaining transportion experiences thus far. And I'm enjoying every moment of my Madagascar life (well almost - there are definitely a few hard times or things I only enjoy in retrospect, usually due to their inherent irony or value as a 'cultural learning experience'). Remembering that I graduated a little over a year ago, I doubt I had any idea then what my Peace Corps life would have in store for me, but now, firmly placed in it, I can hardly imagine being anywhere else or doing anything different at this point in my life. Ahhh!

Well, I do believe I've rambled on long enough, and if you have made it this far (especially without pictures to fuel your interest!) you are a real trooper. I love you all very much! Hope everyone is doing marvelously! Keep the letters coming...got two today (thanks Grandparents Kunas and Chris!) ...they totally make my day and I've got the time to write back (Shiloh, Smiley's, Kunas', Lesan's, Robyn, expect letters 'soonish'...not sure how long post takes from here). Think of you often and sending love, hugs and kisses your way!
Peace,
~Tara Magnolia