What does a PCV do in Katsepy?

Salama daholo! Ino voavoa? Maresaka? I'm a little bummed, because I had some awesome pictures to post of my garden, house, and of Peace Corps Volunteer me, but due to a certain lacking usb port on this ancient computer, photos are a no-go. So you'll have to settle for using your imagination...my carrots, radishes, cucumbers and beans are about yah-tall and my lettuce and melons are just poking their heads out of the ground against a backdrop of rich green rice paddies, mango and coconut tress; my house is a little bunglow sort with red windows and door, tin and wood siding and tin roof; and I'm pretty much the same, except with noteably wilder hair, a wicked tan, and according to my villagers (they say this with pride), a little bit plumper - I'm not sure I agree with this last statement, but perhaps I should cut back on the coconut enhanced rice, bread and kabaka (side dishes) :) and up the number of bikerides I take to the district lighthouse where I catch the breeze up high and chill with my fellow primates, the family of six sifaka that live in the baobob trees there.

So, I believe last post I promised a lowdown on my 'job' there, so here goes:
1. I garden, experimenting with new vegetables not yet grow in my region and with techiniques not yet used. My plot is quite large, and I'm slowly preparing the soil and adding raised bed after raised bed, so it is definitely a work in progress and I've much to learn still. But, I've already had the joy to discover that I, in fact, love gardening! Totally intimidated at first, both by the techniques and the amount of physical labor input needed, now I'm thrilled to spend the day in my garden watering my new little plants and working the soil. All that, and hopefully in a couple months I'll have all sorts of organically homegrown veges! Did I mention a big part of PC for me is reducing my ecological footprint on the earth...well, there you go!
2. Solar cooking and drying project. I've already built a very simple solar cooker with some cardboard, glue and aluminum foil that cooks like a dream...I've already impressed my neighbors by baking bread, cooking rice and even beans! That crazy shiney thing in my yard really does serve a function. And I can't think of anything more practical in this incredibly sunny, hot, haven't seen rain yet home of mine. I'm also in the process of building a solar dryer in anticipation for the mango season. Next step, cooking 'class' with the town women's association and a demonstration at the town's big festival next month.
3. Teaching. In September, when school starts again, I will officially begin my environmental education program at the town elementary and middle school, with plans for a school garden/tree nursery, and hopes to start a science/nature club. Along with teaching gardening techniques and introducing new and delicious veges :), I will be doing ecology and conservation lessons, all with a little bit of english (what I get asked on a daily basis to teach). Any lesson plan ideas, advice from those already experienced at teaching, etc, please do share. I'm already starting to plan a bit. In addition to the youngsters, I'll probably be holding English classes maybe once a week for interested adults too.
4. Geography/Map project! Not an official project, just something on the side I'd like to do and would love your, yes you!, help with. I've got a giant map of the world and bunch of kids who don't know about much outside of Katsepy but are interested in learning - all that's missing are pictures of the world to share with them! So next time you run across some cool photos of people, landscape, culture of the world (even including ridiculous American pop culture) in your lastest issue of National Geographic or US Weekly, please think of the 'poor children of Madagascar' and send 'em my way (it'd be great too if you'd also think of your poor friend Tara who misses you terribly and send a letter update along with the pics :)). Thanks everyone...I think this would be really cool and definitely more exciting for the kids to look at than me eating dinner (which they frequently stop by in the evenings to do...yes, Americans can eat rice too).
5. Misc. development projects. UNICEF is looking at funding a youth center in Katsepty, a group of dentists will be visiting the town next month (armed with toothbrushes and anti-decay whatever I hope...this group is headed up by a non-dentist who none-the-less frequently finds the need to use dental tools I imagine as he prepares his Madagascar fossils and someone who I hope to be working with often over the next two years, paleontologist David Krause...check out the Ankizy Fund for more info), and the next town over has a local bird conservation effort underway that focuses not only on wildlife protection but also youth education. Perfect!

***Disclaimer...this is where I start to get a little wordy...read at your leisure, maybe with a cup of tea to stay focused...okay, good luck!***

So, getting the idea yet? Honestly, I frequently find my head overflowing with all sorts of ideas, including girl's club, a library, ecotourism, but I have to keep reminding myself to slow down and focus on the basics, such as what the heck is Peace Corps and why exactly is this little white girl living with us...I'm pretty sure that piece of me is still a big question mark for my community. They know they like me, but why I'm farming vegetables and transplanting rice, hmmm.... :) Fortunately, while my Malagasy is steadily improving, at this point it is still an effective barrier against letting myself get carried away. That said, the potential for projects here in Katsepy is immense. Within the next month I will begin holding meetings with community members and farmers to determine where felt needs and desires lie and begin to prioritize these needs to insure that my work here is the most efficient and effective it can be. Also, the stronger the involvement and enthusiasm for a project from the community, the more sustainable, and hopefully longlasting the project will be. I'm valuing of myself less as a teacher (because honestly, how could I possibly hold anywhere near the amount of knowledge as a local farmer or community member) and more as a venue for new innovations and techniques that can be used to improve/modify existing techniques, and as an experimentor who can afford to take risks and make mistakes while learning (although I'm living relatively simply on about $200-300 a month, this is still a fortune compared to the avg Katsepy family). The village is poor, the children are malnourished, the school is not a simulating or encouraging learning environment, and the landscape, while beautiful is heavily degraded. And yet the people are happy, among the most friendly and welcoming I've ever met, always willing to share a meal, sit and talk, patiently teach me new words, braid my white girl hair (and yes, I do in fact look ridiculous in cornrows, but the town loves it and it is cool social 'event'). I have much to learn from my community (already have learned how to cook just about anything with cococut, gut and descale a fish, appreciate just sitting and watching, and the kids have taught me how to make these cool little balls and 'windmills' out of grass that result in all sorts of fun games). I only hope that I can in return equally teach, share, and enrich their lives and in particular encourage and educate youngsters so they can become the next motivators within the community.

Okay, I'm getting long winded and carried away again...these are big hopes for someone who can just barely hold a full-on Malagasy conversation, but I'm already feeling a sense of trust and acceptance from my community that is incredible. I have a couple ladies who I believe are becoming real friends, my favorite lady (who gives me papaya and home-made honey) has become Mama ani'Tara (women here are named after their oldest daughter) or to me, mamako Malagasy (my Malagasy mom), and if I don't walk my usually circuit for even one day, the next day everyone is like, ' Hey Tara! Where have you been-I haven't seen you in so long!'. I think they've come to expect me passing by and I have to admit nothing makes me happier than seeing a friend's face light up when they see me wander past and we spend the next few minutes catching up on the news for the day. A favorite moment... One day a lot (4) of vazaha (foreigners) were in town, and I was commenting on this to one of my Malagasy friends, informing her that although these were probably the people I had the most in common with in town, I couldn't speak a word to them! They were all French, didn't speak English (or Malagasy :)), and my French sucks to put it mildly. She laughed and said, 'Don't worry, you're only a vazaha on the outside cause you're white, on the inside, you're Malagasy'. Oh, my goodness, does it get better than that? (Do hope so...I've still go 22 months here. :))

And then just as I'm feeling comfortable and settled, inevitable something unexpected, bizarre and unique happens to remind me that I'm indeed in Madagascar where life is totally different and even the most ordinary experiences can occur in the most extraordinary setting...drinking tea from my thermos at the base of the lighthouse constructed by the French some time ago, still in use and powered by solar panels (which are protected from goats by a dilapitated fence of tree branches and grass rope) while I overlook a small grass hut village on the edge of a white sand beach facing the Mozambique Channel. And vice versa, where the most usual everyday event can occur in the craziest way...buying meat (there is a story for you one day) or my ferry ride across the bay to Mahajanga yesterday, where I probably could have lifted my feet and remained in place it was so crowded...sandwiched between about a 5 people, a basket full of chickens, a few loose ones, and a bicycle with a dead pig (not joking) tied to the back made it hands down the most entertaining transportion experiences thus far. And I'm enjoying every moment of my Madagascar life (well almost - there are definitely a few hard times or things I only enjoy in retrospect, usually due to their inherent irony or value as a 'cultural learning experience'). Remembering that I graduated a little over a year ago, I doubt I had any idea then what my Peace Corps life would have in store for me, but now, firmly placed in it, I can hardly imagine being anywhere else or doing anything different at this point in my life. Ahhh!

Well, I do believe I've rambled on long enough, and if you have made it this far (especially without pictures to fuel your interest!) you are a real trooper. I love you all very much! Hope everyone is doing marvelously! Keep the letters coming...got two today (thanks Grandparents Kunas and Chris!) ...they totally make my day and I've got the time to write back (Shiloh, Smiley's, Kunas', Lesan's, Robyn, expect letters 'soonish'...not sure how long post takes from here). Think of you often and sending love, hugs and kisses your way!
Peace,
~Tara Magnolia

Week 3...Fety, Pictures and Address!

So, I've officially been at site for three weeks now and am loving it! Finally unpacked and adjusting to up at 5:30, bed by 9 with walking, talking, working and often a surprise or two in between, life is moving along in Katsepy. Stories...last week, the women's group in my community had a meeting and I had asked to be invited. So, they pick me up on their way and turns out the meeting was entirely doing Malagasy dances. They crank up the generator, blast the music and for the next couple hours they teach me Malagasy dances (even better, specific to my region). Thank goodness for my dance background, so I was able to pick up the moves no problem, but I will never be able to move my hips like they do. The next day they had a 'meeting' again, so after a morning working in my garden, I show up and we dance and then there is some talk about a ball, most of which I don't understand, but catch that something is happening the next morning in town...a women's fety (party/festival). So the next morning I show up to check things out...they're not ready yet, but they're working on something...come back at 1. I come back at 1, still not ready yet, but a corner of town has been blocked off and decorated. Too late to work in the garden, so I do my usual walk around and talk with some of the friends I am making in town. Finally 5 o'clock rolls around and someones comes up to me asking, "Where is your lamba (Malagasy sarong), you need it for the fety?" I think okay, go home, grab the beautiful lamba I was given during site visit and return. Next thing I know, the 'fety' has filled up with spectators, I'm dressed up Sakalava (tribe/culture of my region) style in my lamba and performing the dances with the women. It was completely surprising and wonderful! They continued without me with an even more impressive rice pounding dance after. It was amazing. Later on in the evening we did have a proper ball...with everyone in town dancing...old to young. The community is so culturally rich and in enjoyment of life. I feel very lucky to get to experience it and hopefully become a part of it all over the next two years.

I'm still hitting many languages walls, but hopefully I will get a tutor soon and that will improve too. And I'm not quite used to sharing my space and privacy with both curious Malagasy people showing up at my house to 'talk' (or sit and stare) and critters...the lizards are totally cool, giant incredibly fast wolf spiders not. The other night I made so much noise trying to kill one on my tin wall that my neighbor came over to check on me...armed with my headlamp and a giant stick and telling her that it was 'just' a spider, I'm not sure what she thought. :) Despite my oddities and lack of simple knowledge (Here Tara, why don't you just let me crack that coconut open for you, or this is how you cook a fish, or how you did a hole), I think that I'm definitely working my way into the community...the fact that it takes me close to an hour to walk the equivalent of four blocks around my town because everyone talks with me I think is a good sign. :) I promise I do work too, more on my 'job' will have to be the topic of my next post. Today I'm in the big city again and have meet some more wonderful new volunteers who also bank in Majunga. And I have set up a post office box!

**My address now is:
PCV Tara Smiley
BP 200
Mahajanga Principle 401
Madagascar

So enjoy a few pictures from my site...scenes from town and the women's fety. It is lunch time and I'm about starved for some rice, so I'm out, but please write...letters and emails are wonderful! I'm just as curious to hear how everyone back home is doing...and thanks again to those who have already been in touch...letters are on their way! I love you all so much and miss you!

~Tara

A Volunteer...and Katsepy Resident!

Well, it has been so long since I've last been able to post, I'm not even sure where to begin. Last week marked the end of training, a bittersweet good-bye to my Malagasy homestay family and fellow trainees (and now after ten weeks together very close friends) and a meaningful swearing in ceremony in Tana. The transition into Volunteer life began with a quick move into my new home of Katsepy, where I have been beginning the adjustment to a new, very hot, very beachy lifestyle. :) My counterpart (main go-to person to work with at my site) is a former Malagasy senator and an amazing resource and person - very well educated and travelled and, still at 70, going strong and working hard to improve the lives of the people in Katsepy, the town his family comes from and to represent and share the Sakalava culture of the region. He knows everyone and is incredibly well respected and will be a great resource for me for the next two years. He and the community have provided me with a beautiful little home and a rather large gardening plot. Wednesday I had the tremendous experience of transplanting rice seedlings in the rice paddies near my garden plot. Listening to the chatter of the two Malagasy women who farm there and patiently taught me how to do the transplanting as I squished calf deep, pudding-like mud between my toes and tried to keep from falling face first into the newly planted rice, I couldn't help but feel in awe of the moment. Of course, this excitement was mixed with the frustration of understanding very little of the chattering going on around me, but I know that the language will improve with time...little by little I will become tamana tsara (well settled). The tremendous generousity and welcoming nature of the Malagasy people, especially in my community, is already helping me to feel at home. Every evening (all 7 of them now :) I try to make the rounds through Katsepy - hit up Mama Jackie's (taught me how to make coconut bread the other day), wander through the little market (this is easy and fun because all we talk about is food and that is about the extent of my vocab anyway) and say hello to everyone I pass (they get a huge kick out of the fact that I know how to say hello in the local dialect and ask what's up). I gave a small speech at the town meeting where my counterpart and the mayor introduced me to everyone and so they all think I'm super mahay (smart - ha! little do they know I just nod and smile) and like to tell me so, which is a huge confidence booster. I've already aquired some teenage sidekicks who help me find my way around (not hard...Katsepy has all of two main 'roads') and show me where to buy this and that. And this is were I should mention how incredibly beautiful my site is...coconut trees everywhere...it truly is a beach paradise. Things I like...picking fresh fruit off the trees as you walk by and eating it on the spot, how unnecessary shoes are, the wind that comes off the sea and provides relief from the incredibly warm climate here on the west coast, the 'siesta' time after lunch when it is too hot to do any work and instead you lay out in your yard (sand of course) on a straw mat which you occasionally have to move to keep it in the shade, the beautiful lambas (sarongs) the women wear and I like to slip into to keep cool after my evening bucket shower while I cook dinner (rice of course), and the wide open possibilities of new friends, new culture, new learning experiences, and a new outlook on life as a Peace Corps Volunteer living and working in Madagascar. I have so much to learn and discover and do, whew it is all at once overwhelming, exciting and still totally crazy.
Just a couple notes to round up training...my stage (group of trainees) was incredible...I couldn't have asked for a better group of people to share the last ten weeks and the next two year with. And now everyone is living in beautiful, interesting and unique places across Madagascar...lots of places and people to visit! Our last tech trip was to a natural park where, yes I saw lemurs in the wild (and lizards, frogs, and chamelons)! The rainforest here is incredible. If Peace Corps had let me, or at least taken their eyes off me for more than a couple minutes, I'm pretty sure I would have headed off to explore and sleep in the mossy undergrowth for a couple weeks. My birthday was very fun, despite having language class all day. We celebrated in style with Malagasy cake, awesome homemade cards, and lots of hugs. My family even gave me a new lamba. It was a great way, and place, with great people to turn 24. We held a big picnic to say good-bye to our families in Mahitsitady, but hopefully I'll be back again sometime in the next two years to see my little sister again. Swearing in (the official ceremony where we take our Volunteer oaths) was a huge success with a fantastic speech in Malagasy from one of our very own - way to represent Brendan! And the last days together were spent cramming in last minute tech knowledge and language and the last nights talking, dancing and enjoying. We even had a talent show...another former dancer in the group, Katherine and I choregraphed and performed a 'Malagasy' dance. It was all fantastic.
Hmmm...something has interrupted the uploading of my pictures. And I've already been online too long, but what is up already are some pictures of my Malagasy homestay family...very wonderful! Our stage has created a group blog at http://www.dagudiaries.blogspot.com/ which you should check out for more insight into life as a volunteer in Madagascar and pictures as well as links to the blogs of others in my stage that are better at posting pictures than I have been. Please enjoy! And write often. Sorry to be so absent, but now I should be making the trip into Majunga to bank/internet twice a month. More pictures and stories to come! I love you all very much and am looking forward to hearing more about life back state-side. Congrats again to Lindsay and Aaron! Hope married life rocks so far. Lots of love, hugs, kisses and thoughts. And as before, know that I am very happy here and really enjoying my experience thus far. With an amazing support system both from home, here in Madagascar and in my community, this will become my home in no time. Love you!

~Tara

Akory Haly!

Salama! I hope everyone back home stateside (and elsewhere) is doing wonderfully. Same situation as the last post, but I've got a full belly of cheese (yes! cheese!) pizza and a little more patience (or maybe my finger have forgotten how to type anyway). Life on the red island continues to progress in the most wonderful of ways (and amazingly quickly). The last couple weeks have passed with more language and technical training, somewhat less awkward dinnertime conversations with my family (by the way, I live with an older couple - 50's - their son and his wife and their almost two yr old daughter - who is just about the most adorable thing I've laid eyes on - I might have to steal her away to site with me - my family is wonderful, extremely patient, and takes great care of me, and my mom's mofo akondro (banana bread) is about the best thing ever - she is teaching me to cook)....okay, where was I...the last couple weeks have passed with a crazy Easter celebration/picnic at the lake (after the longest most uncomfortable four hours at church) with the whole town and fianakaviana ny mamako betseka (loads of my mom's family), continued strengthening of my friendships with the other trainees in my stage (all incredible - talented, funny, smart, supportive), and a daily building of enthusiaism, excitement and positivity. Faly lehibe aho (I'm so happy!). And this all leads up to yesterday...probably the biggest day yet (and that is saying a lot), when I met the first member of my future community. Called Partner's Day, one person from our site travels down to Tana to meet us, do a workshop, and then take us back to our site to check things out for a couple days and begin meeting people. My 'partner' is a farmer from Katsepy, very nice, and turns out speaks a dialect quite different from what I've been learning (the steep - really almost vertical - learning curve will continue for a long time I think - I'm up for it!). Tomorrow we'll have a 13 hour taxi-brousse (imagine being as uncomfortable as possible and then add in incredibly curvy roads) to Mahajanga to start peicing it all together. Then I ferry across the bay to see my home for the next two years for the first time! I'm so excited, I can't even describe it - take leaving the states and times it by twenty, and while you're at it do that for my overwhelmedness too! :) When I was leaving the states, two years seemed like nothing...now it seems like such a long time, but such a long time full of countless possibilities that I'm sure will ultimately fly by. I've been developing lots of potential project ideas/ambitions for my two years in Katsepy - it will be fantastic to actually see it and begin the process of determining how I can best help the community (and enjoy myself!) I'll be seeing my home - my Malagasy home - how crazy and super sweet is that! And all I've heard (from so many people) about Katsepy so far is how beautiful it is. And did I mention there is a paleontologist who does a lot of work nearby who I've been put in touch with and is enthusiastic about paleo and development projects - could it really been a more perfect fit? So, I have a feeling the next post will be very full! And with pictures! You have to see the kids here - they are awesome and are continually energizing me. Okay, time to share the computer. But first thanks so much for the letters that have been sent - my address is in the first post and if you write me, I'll write you back (sorry I don't have everyone's address already) - they totally make my day. And, I now have a cell phone - the number is 011261 32 5509 533 - that includes Mad country code. It is not often on or with reception, but just so you know! I've talked to a couple people already and am so happy to hear that everyone back home is doing well! I miss you all so much and think of you often - I can't wait to continue to share this experience with you! So much love to you all! OXOXOXOX
Peace,
Tara

Love to all! (I'm alive and doing wonderful!)

Hello all! Okay, I'm on a french keyboard, and there is quite the line of PCT's waiting for computer time after me, so please forgive the shortness of this post and any wierdness with wrong letters/characters. :) So, in short, things in Madagascar are wonderful! My training group, trainers, language teachers and Malagasy family are all super lovely people. Living with a Malagasy family is both a great learning experience and a huge challenge...but, my Malagasy gets better every day, and I'm totally digging the candle-lite evenings, rice for three meals a day every day, showers from a bucket, and I believe I've mastered the kabone (latrine). I'm getting super mahay (smart) with all sorts of gardening (including rice cropping) and am starting to figure out what environ. ed. actually means. :) And, I know where I will be living for the next two years...Katsepy! It is a beach village on the West Coast (closest big tozn is Mahajunga). It looks totally sweet.
I feel like there is so much I want to share, but I will hqve to do this more later...sorry I haven't been able to write sooner...we just arrived in Tana (the big city) last night...I can,t believe Iùve been gone for less than 3 weeks...America seems pretty far away to me now, and Iùm definitely loving the Malagasy immersion. Today we visited an amazing orphanage in Tana, and got to play with children all day...all I can say is that it was magical. Thanks for all the wonderful notes so far...I'm very happy, loving life, and staying healthy. Hopefully I'll have internet again in a couple more weeks, and Iùll write a better, less random post then, but I should prob share the computer. Thinking about you all lots! Love you so much!

~Tara Tsiky (Smile)

Off to Madagascar We Go!

Hello Friends and Family!

Today is the day! After two great days of training in Washington, DC, I now have a 'somewhat' better idea of what to expect from the beginning of my Peace Corps adventure in Madagascar. Many more questions will get answered, I'm sure, once we arrive! My training group is wonderful so far - many interesting, talented, enthusiastic and motivated people to continue to get to know and share stories with. Everyone seems truly fitted for the Peace Corps and we all seem fitted for each other. There are 32 of us to join the 115 Volunteers already in country.

Anxiety and excitement has been building as we prepare to board our plane this afternoon. It will be a long 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, where we will spend the night and get ready to take off for Madagascar the very next morning. Our training site in Madagascar is 2 1/2 hours outside of Antananarivo and looks wonderful! I'm thrilled to begin meeting the Peace Corps staff and other Volunteers in country. Most exciting, or nerve-racking, of all, is that we will be directly dropped off at our new host families' homes that first evening. Communication will be interesting, I'm sure. :) And then training begins! As part of the Environmental Program in Madagascar, I will more specifically be an Environmental Education Volunteer. Feeling uncertain of what that means and what skills I will need, training will be an amazing and challenging three months - especially since we will be learning and adopting a whole new language and culture. Oh man though, I am so excited. If you know me at all, you know I'm sitting at the edge of my seat, mind racing and with the biggest smile on my face. Life couldn't feel more right (and crazy) than it does at this moment (although it will probably feel even crazier in just a day or two). Since we going directly to our training site upon arrival in Madagascar, we will have no contact with home for at least the first few weeks - no internet or phone! So, although I won't be able to post again for a bit, know that I am doing wonderfully with my new cohort of Peace Corps Trainees and in my new home, Madagascar! No news is the good news, and when I get to share with you again, well, that will be the best news.

Important things of note!

New email address: taramagnolia@gmail.com

Mailing address during training:
Bureau du Corps de la Paix
B. P. 12091
Post Zoom Ankorondrano
Antananarivo 101
Madagascar

Send me a letter and I'll write you back!

Also, thank you so much to all who has been my incredible support system as I prepared for this amazing adventure and opportunity. I couldn't have done it without all of my extraordinary friends and family. I'll be thinking of you always, and I can't wait to share my experience with you!

I love you!
Tara