Well, one week in Tanzania down and what can I say...
The program looks like a great fit, Dar Es Salaam is a nice, though hot capitol city, Tanzanians are open and friendly, and my Kiswahili is still kidogo (small) but getting there thanks to my amazing teacher Paul. Asante sana.
The staff here has constructed a great personal training for me. After this past week of language, language, language, and of course a run down of Peace Corps rules, I'm heading west to Mororgoro to live with a host family for the next 1.5-2 weeks. I'm really looking forward to a change of scenery...I hear there are mountains there! And the constant, necessary Kiswahili learning mode. Before heading off, I'm meeting up with some Tanzania PCV's this evening to get the real story :) and spending one more day in the office, meeting and chatting with my new 'boss', who maybe just maybe can tell me where I'll be living for the next year!
Happy Easter to all! I hope you are all doing well and are happily moving into spring. Thinking of everyone much and wishing you all luck on your current adventure! I've posted my address for the time being and my number (look right and try 255-78-847-4985 first), so get in touch if you can! Kwa heri!
Peace,
Tara
Monday, April 13, 2009
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Veloma Madagasikara!
For everything you have missed, you have gained something else, and for everything you gain, you lose something else.
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
A week...or two later...and I am finally off again, but before the packing begins and my head moves along with my body to a new home, here are a few pictures for us to share and remember a most extraordinary last few months in Madagascar.
I apologize...captions are below and you get to play match the photo to the caption...I can't figure out how to get them next to eachother. :)
The enormous baobab tree in Mahajanga...hang out spot by the seaside.
Sailboat and Katsepy.
A huge chamelon hanging out in one of the trees of Isalo NP...New Year's Vacation.
Just before the chilly waterfall dip...Isalo NP, New Year's.
Too beautiful for words...Nymph Cascade, Isalo NP, New Year's.
Crazy bright red many-pede at Isalo NP, New Year's.
My stage and newest best friends before the split...I love you all!
Thanksgiving, Gasy-American style.
My best friends, dressed up for Christmas day.
Outside the church Christmas Day, Katsepy...friends, Santa and candy = perfect celebration!
Sailing home to Katsepy.
My last braids...and a shot of my home decorations.
The environment club students planting and protecting the tree seedlings they grew in order to provide a 'living fence' for the school.
Forty cows...just as many young boys...a crazy day and a perfectly prepared rice paddy.
Bowls and bowls of rice.
And so tomorrow, a new adventure begins...with a 3pm flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I'm thrilled, nervous, anxious to find out who my new friends are, where my new community will be, what my new job is, but above all excited and happy. And though the title of this blog and its contents are now shifting to a new home, I will always be Malagasy Magnolia, sharing my continued Peace Corps...Part 2...experience with you all. Love you and more to come!
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
A week...or two later...and I am finally off again, but before the packing begins and my head moves along with my body to a new home, here are a few pictures for us to share and remember a most extraordinary last few months in Madagascar.
I apologize...captions are below and you get to play match the photo to the caption...I can't figure out how to get them next to eachother. :)
The enormous baobab tree in Mahajanga...hang out spot by the seaside.
Sailboat and Katsepy.
A huge chamelon hanging out in one of the trees of Isalo NP...New Year's Vacation.
Just before the chilly waterfall dip...Isalo NP, New Year's.
Too beautiful for words...Nymph Cascade, Isalo NP, New Year's.
Crazy bright red many-pede at Isalo NP, New Year's.
My stage and newest best friends before the split...I love you all!
Thanksgiving, Gasy-American style.
My best friends, dressed up for Christmas day.
Outside the church Christmas Day, Katsepy...friends, Santa and candy = perfect celebration!
Sailing home to Katsepy.
My last braids...and a shot of my home decorations.
The environment club students planting and protecting the tree seedlings they grew in order to provide a 'living fence' for the school.
Forty cows...just as many young boys...a crazy day and a perfectly prepared rice paddy.
Bowls and bowls of rice.
And so tomorrow, a new adventure begins...with a 3pm flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. I'm thrilled, nervous, anxious to find out who my new friends are, where my new community will be, what my new job is, but above all excited and happy. And though the title of this blog and its contents are now shifting to a new home, I will always be Malagasy Magnolia, sharing my continued Peace Corps...Part 2...experience with you all. Love you and more to come!
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Losses and Changes
As many of you have probably now heard, the Peace Corps Madagascar program has been indefinitely suspended and all volunteers have been safely evacuated from the country. All 116 of us landed here in Jo-burg, South Africa by last Tuesday, and have since been wading through heaps of paperwork, enduring the poking, prodding and collecting of the medical team, and trying to sort through the emotions of this heartbreaking experience. I have yet to fully process the loss or accept that this chapter of my life has come to an end, very sadly without my consent and without any closure, but I’m working on it.
And though they are strong, somewhat dramatic words to use, I do believe that the best description of this whole thing is heartbreaking loss. For me, the loss of my Malagasy friends and family, the loss of my job, garden, house, belongings, the loss of a full year of experiences in Madagascar, and the loss of my potential as a second year volunteer serving my community. I will not see my very pregnant friend give birth next month, I will not see my three year old neighbor expand his limited vocabulary (which includes my name) to complete sentences, I will not see the pride spread across the faces of my environment club students as we continue to build upon the tree nursery project, I will not get to share a meal from my first rice harvest with the friends who helped me plant it, and I will not be able to complete my commitment to my community…neither of us will be able to see what we could have accomplished together over two years. And for these things, my heart hurts.
And for the loss of the Malagasy people during this political clash of egos and guns, I feel the most pain. Rioting has led to the loss of life, looting and destruction have led to the loss of businesses and community confidence, unconstitutional take-over of the government has led to the condemnation on the international community, who has pulled out all non-relief aid, volatility has led to loss of foreign tourism and investment, and to a people already living on the bare minimum, there is the loss of a road leading towards a better life and the replacement of instability and reduced resources and opportunities. This is not to say that the discontent leading up to the coup was uncalled for, or that this new ‘president’ could not make a change for the better, but to the greater population of Malagasy people, a change over of power could have waited two years for the nation’s next constitutional elections. How can you keep moving forward if you’re too busy fighting the steps that will get you there? And how can one group of men shape and change the lives of present and future generations of an entire nation? And finally, as a biologist, what does this mean in terms of global biodiversity loss…tracks towards conservation of Madagascar’s unique flora and fauna will be severed during this change-over…how are we able to continue to help the Malagasy people to help themselves and their environment?
As I mourn these losses, I also recognize that I have had an incredible opportunity through PC to meet some of the most amazing people of my life, live in a way that is so powerful and different, and change myself through the process, and even if heartbreak had to be a part of it, I wouldn’t have asked for any other experience. I have not lost my many memories of Madagascar, I have not lost the laughter I shared with my community, I have not lost my most amazing support network of PC friends, who over the past thirteen months have given so much to me, through encouragement and love (though we are now scattered throughout the world, as opposed to the world’s fourth largest island), and I have not lost the lessons I learned about myself, the changed perception I have gained and the future of reflection about my experience. And for these things, I can bear the losses.
As most of my PC friends move on to the world of Returned PCV status, I have decided to continue my service, and am hoping for a transfer to either Tanzania or Zambia in the upcoming weeks. I will keep you updated as this opportunity unfolds. It has been a difficult decision to make, but I am committed to finishing my service, and am excited for the chance to try it all again…two PC experiences for the price of one. Thanks for reading, thanks for your thoughts and love, and thanks for a moment to honor the Malagasy people and the life they so willing gave and shared with me. Please keep in touch…stories from home are a great distraction, and besides you’ve read this far, so I owe you one. :)
Love you all very much,
Tara Magnolia
And though they are strong, somewhat dramatic words to use, I do believe that the best description of this whole thing is heartbreaking loss. For me, the loss of my Malagasy friends and family, the loss of my job, garden, house, belongings, the loss of a full year of experiences in Madagascar, and the loss of my potential as a second year volunteer serving my community. I will not see my very pregnant friend give birth next month, I will not see my three year old neighbor expand his limited vocabulary (which includes my name) to complete sentences, I will not see the pride spread across the faces of my environment club students as we continue to build upon the tree nursery project, I will not get to share a meal from my first rice harvest with the friends who helped me plant it, and I will not be able to complete my commitment to my community…neither of us will be able to see what we could have accomplished together over two years. And for these things, my heart hurts.
And for the loss of the Malagasy people during this political clash of egos and guns, I feel the most pain. Rioting has led to the loss of life, looting and destruction have led to the loss of businesses and community confidence, unconstitutional take-over of the government has led to the condemnation on the international community, who has pulled out all non-relief aid, volatility has led to loss of foreign tourism and investment, and to a people already living on the bare minimum, there is the loss of a road leading towards a better life and the replacement of instability and reduced resources and opportunities. This is not to say that the discontent leading up to the coup was uncalled for, or that this new ‘president’ could not make a change for the better, but to the greater population of Malagasy people, a change over of power could have waited two years for the nation’s next constitutional elections. How can you keep moving forward if you’re too busy fighting the steps that will get you there? And how can one group of men shape and change the lives of present and future generations of an entire nation? And finally, as a biologist, what does this mean in terms of global biodiversity loss…tracks towards conservation of Madagascar’s unique flora and fauna will be severed during this change-over…how are we able to continue to help the Malagasy people to help themselves and their environment?
As I mourn these losses, I also recognize that I have had an incredible opportunity through PC to meet some of the most amazing people of my life, live in a way that is so powerful and different, and change myself through the process, and even if heartbreak had to be a part of it, I wouldn’t have asked for any other experience. I have not lost my many memories of Madagascar, I have not lost the laughter I shared with my community, I have not lost my most amazing support network of PC friends, who over the past thirteen months have given so much to me, through encouragement and love (though we are now scattered throughout the world, as opposed to the world’s fourth largest island), and I have not lost the lessons I learned about myself, the changed perception I have gained and the future of reflection about my experience. And for these things, I can bear the losses.
As most of my PC friends move on to the world of Returned PCV status, I have decided to continue my service, and am hoping for a transfer to either Tanzania or Zambia in the upcoming weeks. I will keep you updated as this opportunity unfolds. It has been a difficult decision to make, but I am committed to finishing my service, and am excited for the chance to try it all again…two PC experiences for the price of one. Thanks for reading, thanks for your thoughts and love, and thanks for a moment to honor the Malagasy people and the life they so willing gave and shared with me. Please keep in touch…stories from home are a great distraction, and besides you’ve read this far, so I owe you one. :)
Love you all very much,
Tara Magnolia
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Back to Katsepy
Ready, set, go...deconsolidate! After three weeks of 'wait-and-see' mode, I'm FINALLY heading back to Katsepy tomorrow! The situation in Madagascar has calmed and remains safe in most regions, so PC is hopefully here to stay. With wisely heightened security and renewed resolve to help a country even more in need, we head back to site. There is much more to report about the last three weeks, but I'm afraid that will take some processing first...so expect more news next interneting. But continue to know that I am safe, staying positive and ready to resettle at home, rebuild relationships in my community and get back to work. Thank you for all the positive emails, calls, and thoughts. You are all sending me absolutely too much love :), so I guess I'll just have to share the excess with my PC friends who have shared this most frustrating and challenging rollercoaster experience with me and with my community whose challenges are not over yet. I love you all so much!
And Happy Valentine's Day,
Tara Magnolia
PS...I was able to pick up packages today at the post office...thank you Dad and Maria, Grandma and Grandpa K and Kurt and Gretchen. It anyone is thinking about sending a package in the next couple weeks, hold off...I need to change my address due to corruptness. Bummer, eh? But other than that...awesome goodies, you guys rock!
And Happy Valentine's Day,
Tara Magnolia
PS...I was able to pick up packages today at the post office...thank you Dad and Maria, Grandma and Grandpa K and Kurt and Gretchen. It anyone is thinking about sending a package in the next couple weeks, hold off...I need to change my address due to corruptness. Bummer, eh? But other than that...awesome goodies, you guys rock!
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Staying Safe in Madagascar
Good morning,
In case you've been following Africa news over the past week, just wanted to let you all know that I am perfectly safe here in Madagascar.
News coverage is still not very prominent, so if you're thinking I'm talking about the cyclones last week, here is an update:
Starting on Saturday, demonstrations led by the capitol's mayor against the nation's president were held in Tana. The mayor and his supporters are upset with the president's increasing monopoly on the M/car market, his misspending of public funds, and a recent land lease to South Korea (half of M/car's arable land). On Sunday, the demonstrations turned into more active rioting. Monday, the mayor spoke again in Tana, which was then followed by protestors rioting and burning down the president's news and radio stations. Tuesday, political unrest in Madagascar spread and escalated.
I was in the capitol already for a training workshop and have been staying put safely at the PC house. Both Wednesday and Thursday were relatively calm here in Tana and throughout the country. My banking town, Mahajanga, was very hard hit, but friends there are safe. And I’ve heard things are normal back home in Katsepy, and my Malagasy ‘family’ is just as anxious for my return as I am. Most small villages probably have very little idea of what is going on. It’s just rice farming as usual.
Experiencing house arrest in the very upscale ‘vahaza’ part of Tana has been somewhat surreal. It’s sunny, birds are chirping, we’ve have plenty of food delivered and have even been able to go out to eat, and stuck with a great group, we’re laughing a lot. But I still can’t help but feel completely shocked...all Malagasy I know are happy, passive and hardworking people...I had no idea that this unhappiness and dissatisfaction with the gov't was so strong and could propel people to such destructive and even violent acts. I feel safe, but sadden and disappointed by this. All PCV's in country are safe and accounted for. I will have internet today and possibly tomorrow and will try to keep all informed as best as possible. If no news, nothing’s changed. :) Please no worries, we are all very safe, and PC is handling the situation incredibly well. Hopefully I've be home in my Katsepy tin and stick hut in no time, eating coconuts like nothing happened. :)
Love you all very much!
Staying safe and positive,
Tara
In case you've been following Africa news over the past week, just wanted to let you all know that I am perfectly safe here in Madagascar.
News coverage is still not very prominent, so if you're thinking I'm talking about the cyclones last week, here is an update:
Starting on Saturday, demonstrations led by the capitol's mayor against the nation's president were held in Tana. The mayor and his supporters are upset with the president's increasing monopoly on the M/car market, his misspending of public funds, and a recent land lease to South Korea (half of M/car's arable land). On Sunday, the demonstrations turned into more active rioting. Monday, the mayor spoke again in Tana, which was then followed by protestors rioting and burning down the president's news and radio stations. Tuesday, political unrest in Madagascar spread and escalated.
I was in the capitol already for a training workshop and have been staying put safely at the PC house. Both Wednesday and Thursday were relatively calm here in Tana and throughout the country. My banking town, Mahajanga, was very hard hit, but friends there are safe. And I’ve heard things are normal back home in Katsepy, and my Malagasy ‘family’ is just as anxious for my return as I am. Most small villages probably have very little idea of what is going on. It’s just rice farming as usual.
Experiencing house arrest in the very upscale ‘vahaza’ part of Tana has been somewhat surreal. It’s sunny, birds are chirping, we’ve have plenty of food delivered and have even been able to go out to eat, and stuck with a great group, we’re laughing a lot. But I still can’t help but feel completely shocked...all Malagasy I know are happy, passive and hardworking people...I had no idea that this unhappiness and dissatisfaction with the gov't was so strong and could propel people to such destructive and even violent acts. I feel safe, but sadden and disappointed by this. All PCV's in country are safe and accounted for. I will have internet today and possibly tomorrow and will try to keep all informed as best as possible. If no news, nothing’s changed. :) Please no worries, we are all very safe, and PC is handling the situation incredibly well. Hopefully I've be home in my Katsepy tin and stick hut in no time, eating coconuts like nothing happened. :)
Love you all very much!
Staying safe and positive,
Tara
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Dagu Diaries
Hello all!
Just a quick reminder to check the blog shared by the PC Madagascar Environment '08 Stage at dagudiaries.blogspot.com - I've recently posted about Muslim Sakalava funeral traditions, and many other thought-provoking, witty, descriptive and downright hilarious posts reside there, serving as yet another window into the often surreal life of Madagascar's PCV's and my closest friends on the island. Enjoy and have a lovely Christmas! Jingle Bells or omby (cow) bells...take your pick...and all that holiday cheer. Love you!
~Tara Magnolia
Just a quick reminder to check the blog shared by the PC Madagascar Environment '08 Stage at dagudiaries.blogspot.com - I've recently posted about Muslim Sakalava funeral traditions, and many other thought-provoking, witty, descriptive and downright hilarious posts reside there, serving as yet another window into the often surreal life of Madagascar's PCV's and my closest friends on the island. Enjoy and have a lovely Christmas! Jingle Bells or omby (cow) bells...take your pick...and all that holiday cheer. Love you!
~Tara Magnolia
Monday, December 8, 2008
Trees and Turning of Bones
Hello! It's a picture post! Things are cruising right along in Katsepy...in summary...last month...sweatiest of my life (December, really?) and totally fun diving head-first into environmental education in the schools, including a rocking environment club tree nursery project. On my way home from the eastern rainforest after an undescribably awesome 'New Cranksgiving' holiday festivity with friends and a turkey that we killed and then cooked underground, I've got the fast internet and will let the pictures share my last month and a half at site. Enjoy!
Kids in the tree nursery on the first day of planting...already have some baby trees now.
Local lemurs...a baby lemur!
Possibly my best friend at site playing our favorite game...bump!
Okay this picture and the picture of the bones are from a 'Fahamadiana' or traditional Malagasy 'turning of the bones' ceremony. An honor to attend, but really too wild to describe, let me just say that if 10 years or so after I die, you (my friends and family) decide to dig my bones up, dress me up in a new white cloth, dance through the woods with a brass band as you carry what's left of my body to a shared feast, then re-bury me in a brand new tomb (still dancing), that is totally cool with me.
Super sweet canyon from Elise and my visit to Ankarafantsika National Park.
This awesome picture from Elise took pretty much sums up why my community is so wonderful...take the energy and happiness in this group of my neighborhood kids and apply it to just about everyone in town. How can I not be having fun?
Loads and loads of love to you. Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and is in the full holiday season swing. I do miss you all tremendously, especially right now, but think of you often and am always sending my love. Have fun and share hugs from me. Veloma-o!
Peace,
Tara Magnolia
Kids in the tree nursery on the first day of planting...already have some baby trees now.
Local lemurs...a baby lemur!
Possibly my best friend at site playing our favorite game...bump!
Okay this picture and the picture of the bones are from a 'Fahamadiana' or traditional Malagasy 'turning of the bones' ceremony. An honor to attend, but really too wild to describe, let me just say that if 10 years or so after I die, you (my friends and family) decide to dig my bones up, dress me up in a new white cloth, dance through the woods with a brass band as you carry what's left of my body to a shared feast, then re-bury me in a brand new tomb (still dancing), that is totally cool with me. 
Super sweet canyon from Elise and my visit to Ankarafantsika National Park. 
This awesome picture from Elise took pretty much sums up why my community is so wonderful...take the energy and happiness in this group of my neighborhood kids and apply it to just about everyone in town. How can I not be having fun?Loads and loads of love to you. Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and is in the full holiday season swing. I do miss you all tremendously, especially right now, but think of you often and am always sending my love. Have fun and share hugs from me. Veloma-o!
Peace,
Tara Magnolia
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