Hello all!
Just a quick reminder to check the blog shared by the PC Madagascar Environment '08 Stage at dagudiaries.blogspot.com - I've recently posted about Muslim Sakalava funeral traditions, and many other thought-provoking, witty, descriptive and downright hilarious posts reside there, serving as yet another window into the often surreal life of Madagascar's PCV's and my closest friends on the island. Enjoy and have a lovely Christmas! Jingle Bells or omby (cow) bells...take your pick...and all that holiday cheer. Love you!
~Tara Magnolia
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Monday, December 8, 2008
Trees and Turning of Bones
Hello! It's a picture post! Things are cruising right along in Katsepy...in summary...last month...sweatiest of my life (December, really?) and totally fun diving head-first into environmental education in the schools, including a rocking environment club tree nursery project. On my way home from the eastern rainforest after an undescribably awesome 'New Cranksgiving' holiday festivity with friends and a turkey that we killed and then cooked underground, I've got the fast internet and will let the pictures share my last month and a half at site. Enjoy!
Kids in the tree nursery on the first day of planting...already have some baby trees now.
Local lemurs...a baby lemur!
Possibly my best friend at site playing our favorite game...bump!
Okay this picture and the picture of the bones are from a 'Fahamadiana' or traditional Malagasy 'turning of the bones' ceremony. An honor to attend, but really too wild to describe, let me just say that if 10 years or so after I die, you (my friends and family) decide to dig my bones up, dress me up in a new white cloth, dance through the woods with a brass band as you carry what's left of my body to a shared feast, then re-bury me in a brand new tomb (still dancing), that is totally cool with me.
Super sweet canyon from Elise and my visit to Ankarafantsika National Park.
This awesome picture from Elise took pretty much sums up why my community is so wonderful...take the energy and happiness in this group of my neighborhood kids and apply it to just about everyone in town. How can I not be having fun?
Loads and loads of love to you. Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and is in the full holiday season swing. I do miss you all tremendously, especially right now, but think of you often and am always sending my love. Have fun and share hugs from me. Veloma-o!
Peace,
Tara Magnolia
Kids in the tree nursery on the first day of planting...already have some baby trees now.
Local lemurs...a baby lemur!
Possibly my best friend at site playing our favorite game...bump!
Okay this picture and the picture of the bones are from a 'Fahamadiana' or traditional Malagasy 'turning of the bones' ceremony. An honor to attend, but really too wild to describe, let me just say that if 10 years or so after I die, you (my friends and family) decide to dig my bones up, dress me up in a new white cloth, dance through the woods with a brass band as you carry what's left of my body to a shared feast, then re-bury me in a brand new tomb (still dancing), that is totally cool with me. 
Super sweet canyon from Elise and my visit to Ankarafantsika National Park. 
This awesome picture from Elise took pretty much sums up why my community is so wonderful...take the energy and happiness in this group of my neighborhood kids and apply it to just about everyone in town. How can I not be having fun?Loads and loads of love to you. Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and is in the full holiday season swing. I do miss you all tremendously, especially right now, but think of you often and am always sending my love. Have fun and share hugs from me. Veloma-o!
Peace,
Tara Magnolia
Friday, October 17, 2008
Fasting, Friends and Farming
Has is only been five weeks? It feels like so much has happened, I’m not sure where to start. I guess there was that one time when…
I fasted for two weeks of Ramadan with the Muslim majority of my community and was reminded that although not religious myself, sharing an important religious practice can be an incredible way to absorb the local culture, a chance to learn how to cook delicious Katsepy Muslim dishes, to eat and converse with more families, be dressed up and send to the mosque, and to become a connected part of an extended family. Unexpected things to share: Fasting during the daylight hours of Ramadan, Katsepy style, actually means saving as much room in your stomach for the feast you’re going to have each night, complete with many coconut specialties. Arabic songs shared during Islamic mass are beautiful and soulful, and the traditional hand-shaking ritual is one of the most meaningful experiences I’ve had in a church setting. The women’s finest robes come out for Friday mass, even though they pray in a separate room from the men.
A friend from Seattle, Elise, came to visit and hung out with me in Katsepy for a week. And we had a wonderful time climbing coconut and mango trees, tending the garden, transplanting rice, taking pictures to create a Katsepy photo journal, fossil hunting on the beach, and an amazing day spent walking to the lighthouse and hanging out with those lemurs – I’ve had great views while munching on cheese and crackers (a splurge) before but never one quite so animated or curious or downright cute – we’re talking baby lemur cute, trucking around on mama’s back or just learning how to jump.
I got an awesome care package from friends back home in Seattle via Elise. You all rock! Letters, pictures, friendship bracelets, books, music, games, chocolate and mac and cheese…what else could I ask for?! Thank you all so much! Thinking of you lots and always sending my love.
I spent 24 hours on a bush taxi after a rather wet ‘ferry’ ride in order to make it across the country to the wetter east coast for the annual PC Tamatave Bike Race and AIDS sensitization, where I saw many fellow PCV’s, did condom demos complete with wooden penis in front of groups of truck drivers, acted as water girl to speeding by bike racers, witnessed the combined hilarity and seriousness of the rickshaw race, ate pizza and ice cream, and went out dancing!
Elise and I visited Ankarafanstika National Park, exploring the last of Madagascar’s western dry deciduous forest and a really cool canyon carved out of bright red and orange sandstones. Got to check out loads of lizards, chamelons, turtles, and lemurs – spent a whole morning following the lemur highway from our tent to the turtle nesting grounds. And we suffered ‘only’ two flat tires on the bush taxi ride home.
With five Katsepy families, planted my own plot of rice using improved farming techniques and afterwards threw a transplanting party…complete with coke and cookies and lots of picture taking. And the rice is still alive and growing…harvest expected for December!
I learned the hard way how to properly transplant vegetables in my garden…though I must say I learned more in the one week after approximately 66.6% of my first round of vegetable transplants died than the entire month of lead-up reading. Forced to confess my lack of prior experience and to ask advice from all the farmers around my garden plot, I got a firmer grasp on locally suited techniques. And even better, I now have farmers more frequently visiting my plot, checking up on me and expressing greater interest now that they have invested some time into my garden. Seeing their existing techniques used to successfully plant vegetable crops new to the region has encouraged them to try little experiments in their own gardens. And now I have tasty little bok choi plants, melons, baby tomato and eggplants, and with any luck a few cabbage plants.
I discovered eating more than one mango (read:3-4) a day leads to a minor allergic reaction causing my skin to itch like crazy – can’t have it all I guess…bloody karma. But…jackfruits are freshly in season too…delicious!
I ‘did away’ with the four mice living in my house only to realize that they were very likely the reason I hadn’t seen the gigantic, super scary spiders in my house for a while. An unexpected symbiotic relationship?
It rained in Katsepy…complete with thunder lightening and a pretty wicked sunset.
Woot! Well that is pretty much the update from this side of the world. Hope everyone is doing well back home and not becoming too stressed with the election hoopla in the States. I miss you all very much…always great to receive letters and hear the news. Thanks again to Elise for an awesome visit and for bringing so many fun things from friends back home. Thanks to those who gave donations as well…I’m beginning to teach environment education classes this week and am hoping to have the Environment Ed Club’s first project be a school tree nursery…the amount donated should be more than enough to cover costs plus some! I’ll keep you posted on the progress of the project.
And finally pretty cute story to share…Elise was asked repeatedly how my mom and the rest of my family was doing back in the States, because of course, if she was a good enough friend to come and visit, she must know all of them. :) She was also asked to send Katsepy hello’s back to friends and family in the States. In the off chance you all reading this blog don’t actually know Elise, consider this your hello from Tara’s Katsepy friends and family! Sending much love and positive thoughts to all. Have a great upcoming Halloween celebration, possibly with a lemur costume contribution? :)
Love and Peace,
Tara
I fasted for two weeks of Ramadan with the Muslim majority of my community and was reminded that although not religious myself, sharing an important religious practice can be an incredible way to absorb the local culture, a chance to learn how to cook delicious Katsepy Muslim dishes, to eat and converse with more families, be dressed up and send to the mosque, and to become a connected part of an extended family. Unexpected things to share: Fasting during the daylight hours of Ramadan, Katsepy style, actually means saving as much room in your stomach for the feast you’re going to have each night, complete with many coconut specialties. Arabic songs shared during Islamic mass are beautiful and soulful, and the traditional hand-shaking ritual is one of the most meaningful experiences I’ve had in a church setting. The women’s finest robes come out for Friday mass, even though they pray in a separate room from the men.
A friend from Seattle, Elise, came to visit and hung out with me in Katsepy for a week. And we had a wonderful time climbing coconut and mango trees, tending the garden, transplanting rice, taking pictures to create a Katsepy photo journal, fossil hunting on the beach, and an amazing day spent walking to the lighthouse and hanging out with those lemurs – I’ve had great views while munching on cheese and crackers (a splurge) before but never one quite so animated or curious or downright cute – we’re talking baby lemur cute, trucking around on mama’s back or just learning how to jump.
I got an awesome care package from friends back home in Seattle via Elise. You all rock! Letters, pictures, friendship bracelets, books, music, games, chocolate and mac and cheese…what else could I ask for?! Thank you all so much! Thinking of you lots and always sending my love.
I spent 24 hours on a bush taxi after a rather wet ‘ferry’ ride in order to make it across the country to the wetter east coast for the annual PC Tamatave Bike Race and AIDS sensitization, where I saw many fellow PCV’s, did condom demos complete with wooden penis in front of groups of truck drivers, acted as water girl to speeding by bike racers, witnessed the combined hilarity and seriousness of the rickshaw race, ate pizza and ice cream, and went out dancing!
Elise and I visited Ankarafanstika National Park, exploring the last of Madagascar’s western dry deciduous forest and a really cool canyon carved out of bright red and orange sandstones. Got to check out loads of lizards, chamelons, turtles, and lemurs – spent a whole morning following the lemur highway from our tent to the turtle nesting grounds. And we suffered ‘only’ two flat tires on the bush taxi ride home.
With five Katsepy families, planted my own plot of rice using improved farming techniques and afterwards threw a transplanting party…complete with coke and cookies and lots of picture taking. And the rice is still alive and growing…harvest expected for December!
I learned the hard way how to properly transplant vegetables in my garden…though I must say I learned more in the one week after approximately 66.6% of my first round of vegetable transplants died than the entire month of lead-up reading. Forced to confess my lack of prior experience and to ask advice from all the farmers around my garden plot, I got a firmer grasp on locally suited techniques. And even better, I now have farmers more frequently visiting my plot, checking up on me and expressing greater interest now that they have invested some time into my garden. Seeing their existing techniques used to successfully plant vegetable crops new to the region has encouraged them to try little experiments in their own gardens. And now I have tasty little bok choi plants, melons, baby tomato and eggplants, and with any luck a few cabbage plants.
I discovered eating more than one mango (read:3-4) a day leads to a minor allergic reaction causing my skin to itch like crazy – can’t have it all I guess…bloody karma. But…jackfruits are freshly in season too…delicious!
I ‘did away’ with the four mice living in my house only to realize that they were very likely the reason I hadn’t seen the gigantic, super scary spiders in my house for a while. An unexpected symbiotic relationship?
It rained in Katsepy…complete with thunder lightening and a pretty wicked sunset.
Woot! Well that is pretty much the update from this side of the world. Hope everyone is doing well back home and not becoming too stressed with the election hoopla in the States. I miss you all very much…always great to receive letters and hear the news. Thanks again to Elise for an awesome visit and for bringing so many fun things from friends back home. Thanks to those who gave donations as well…I’m beginning to teach environment education classes this week and am hoping to have the Environment Ed Club’s first project be a school tree nursery…the amount donated should be more than enough to cover costs plus some! I’ll keep you posted on the progress of the project.
And finally pretty cute story to share…Elise was asked repeatedly how my mom and the rest of my family was doing back in the States, because of course, if she was a good enough friend to come and visit, she must know all of them. :) She was also asked to send Katsepy hello’s back to friends and family in the States. In the off chance you all reading this blog don’t actually know Elise, consider this your hello from Tara’s Katsepy friends and family! Sending much love and positive thoughts to all. Have a great upcoming Halloween celebration, possibly with a lemur costume contribution? :)
Love and Peace,
Tara
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Hot Days and Upside Down Nights
It is hot in Katsepy…I’d tell you just how hot, but my thermometer only goes to 120 degrees F. I requested the thermometer (thanks Grandma and Grandpa) thinking it would be cool to record daily temp and rainfall…I’m pretty sure the record will remain fairly consistent, at least until cyclone season…Temp=120, rainfall=0mm. The fact that I get goosebumps when it drops to 80 in the evenings is just one way in which my overall perspective on things is changing within this Peace Corps adventure. Things I’ve grown accustomed to (almost):
About a gazillion kids/babies running around that I can play with, have the patience to talk with me, and generally keep me sane and happy (and that wear minimal clothing, with at least one per week that will either pee directly on my leg or close enough for splashback).
A pathway of sand wherever I plan on walking with the occasional coconut obstacle (no joke, ‘solid’ ground feels weird to me now).
Being the only person in town consistently aware of what day of the week/time it is.
Things not being used as originally intended/in new and creative ways (example: half a fan cover used as a basket for potatoes).
Feeling like I have an second head or some other extra appendage that makes me stick out instantly…oh wait, it is just my skin/hair/eye color.
Being sung to sleep each night by a symphony of geckos, insects and other as of yet unidentified creatures.
Total disregard for gravity and incredible feats of balance around each corner (seriously? A giant bag of rice/basket of eggs/bucket of pineapples…on your head?!).
Intermittent electricity that incites cheers of glee from the children when it comes on (Katsepy has a generator that provides electricity for a couple hours in the evening…when there is gas to run it).
Eating copious amounts of starches…rice, potatoes, other impressively large tubers, bread, with spoon as the one and only necessary utensil.
Being aware and responsive to the phases of the moon, as well as viewing it and the rest of the night sky upside down.
The act of obtaining drinkable water being a time consuming process…fetching well water, filtering it, and adding a generous dose of chlorine.
Only washing my hair once or twice a week, but scrubbing my feet with a brush every night (bucket showers only).
Having to describe things like squirrels, drying machines and McDonalds.
Going on long and arduous hunts for exotic foods, like raisins, peanut butter or cornmeal, but having ridiculous quantities of coconuts and mangoes in my front yard.
Having callused hands not just from gardening by also from hand washing clothes in a bucket…I think they get clean.
Being totally unaware of world news (what is going on these days…anyone what to fill me in?)
Explaining that not all white people are French, and that not all Americans are from either LA or NY, and that there are many different types of Americans.
In addition to internet, cold beverages and ice cream being a really big treat each month during banking time.
The smell of burning always…trash, plastic, wood, charcoal.
Naptime.
Not knowing what I’m doing most of the time, but enjoying myself anyway, making friends and stories all along the way.
In work news… It was my main goal to get well settled and integrated by last month’s training. Ok, check, done…what next? Life has slowed down considerably lately…the daily routine is interrupted by short and intense bursts of productivity, as I try to arrange meetings and get a larger project rolling with the community. I’m operating at a 50% success rate with regards to meetings, which is a considerable improvement (only every other meeting gets cancelled now, as opposed to all) and each meeting provides me with more and more information about the needs of the community, as well as serves as a chance to explain Peace Corps yet again. So, these leaves me in limbo mode, and slightly anxious to start something. School starts in a couple weeks, which I’m very excited about…I’ve already begun to hold weekly English classes, at first just to get everyone off my back about teaching, but I’m actually having a lot of fun with it…the kids are really in to it. All in all, if there was a schedule, I’d consider myself on track, and making the most of it. Love you all so much and thinking of you always! Oh, and to though who expressed concern about the whole malaria thing, thanks, I’ve been nothing but healthy since, and am not above waging war against my mosquito enemies…lots of bug spray battles and I seem to be winning. :) Have fun and eat some cheese for me!
With Peace and Love,
Tara Magnolia
PS…Thank you Mom, Grandma and Grandpa K, and Kyle for the wonderful packages full of America. Also, Grandpa S, Kurt and Gretchen for the letters, and Rex for the awesome collection of postcards…I’m just wondering why you didn’t hop over to Madagascar while you were at it? :)
About a gazillion kids/babies running around that I can play with, have the patience to talk with me, and generally keep me sane and happy (and that wear minimal clothing, with at least one per week that will either pee directly on my leg or close enough for splashback).
A pathway of sand wherever I plan on walking with the occasional coconut obstacle (no joke, ‘solid’ ground feels weird to me now).
Being the only person in town consistently aware of what day of the week/time it is.
Things not being used as originally intended/in new and creative ways (example: half a fan cover used as a basket for potatoes).
Feeling like I have an second head or some other extra appendage that makes me stick out instantly…oh wait, it is just my skin/hair/eye color.
Being sung to sleep each night by a symphony of geckos, insects and other as of yet unidentified creatures.
Total disregard for gravity and incredible feats of balance around each corner (seriously? A giant bag of rice/basket of eggs/bucket of pineapples…on your head?!).
Intermittent electricity that incites cheers of glee from the children when it comes on (Katsepy has a generator that provides electricity for a couple hours in the evening…when there is gas to run it).
Eating copious amounts of starches…rice, potatoes, other impressively large tubers, bread, with spoon as the one and only necessary utensil.
Being aware and responsive to the phases of the moon, as well as viewing it and the rest of the night sky upside down.
The act of obtaining drinkable water being a time consuming process…fetching well water, filtering it, and adding a generous dose of chlorine.
Only washing my hair once or twice a week, but scrubbing my feet with a brush every night (bucket showers only).
Having to describe things like squirrels, drying machines and McDonalds.
Going on long and arduous hunts for exotic foods, like raisins, peanut butter or cornmeal, but having ridiculous quantities of coconuts and mangoes in my front yard.
Having callused hands not just from gardening by also from hand washing clothes in a bucket…I think they get clean.
Being totally unaware of world news (what is going on these days…anyone what to fill me in?)
Explaining that not all white people are French, and that not all Americans are from either LA or NY, and that there are many different types of Americans.
In addition to internet, cold beverages and ice cream being a really big treat each month during banking time.
The smell of burning always…trash, plastic, wood, charcoal.
Naptime.
Not knowing what I’m doing most of the time, but enjoying myself anyway, making friends and stories all along the way.
In work news… It was my main goal to get well settled and integrated by last month’s training. Ok, check, done…what next? Life has slowed down considerably lately…the daily routine is interrupted by short and intense bursts of productivity, as I try to arrange meetings and get a larger project rolling with the community. I’m operating at a 50% success rate with regards to meetings, which is a considerable improvement (only every other meeting gets cancelled now, as opposed to all) and each meeting provides me with more and more information about the needs of the community, as well as serves as a chance to explain Peace Corps yet again. So, these leaves me in limbo mode, and slightly anxious to start something. School starts in a couple weeks, which I’m very excited about…I’ve already begun to hold weekly English classes, at first just to get everyone off my back about teaching, but I’m actually having a lot of fun with it…the kids are really in to it. All in all, if there was a schedule, I’d consider myself on track, and making the most of it. Love you all so much and thinking of you always! Oh, and to though who expressed concern about the whole malaria thing, thanks, I’ve been nothing but healthy since, and am not above waging war against my mosquito enemies…lots of bug spray battles and I seem to be winning. :) Have fun and eat some cheese for me!
With Peace and Love,
Tara Magnolia
PS…Thank you Mom, Grandma and Grandpa K, and Kyle for the wonderful packages full of America. Also, Grandpa S, Kurt and Gretchen for the letters, and Rex for the awesome collection of postcards…I’m just wondering why you didn’t hop over to Madagascar while you were at it? :)
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Pictures!
Salam-a! How is everyone doing? I'm in the capitol, Tana, finishing up a week of training with my fellow stage mates. It's been great...catching up on stories, comparing experiences, sharing lessons learned, and just hanging out, eating good food, appreciating electricity and running water, and fast internet! So, finally with the capability to share, here are some pictures from site to give you a better idea of life in here in Madagascar.
~Family I work with a lot, gardening, rice farming, hanging out. This is a classic Malagasy picture....stand there and whatever you do, don't smile.
I love you all! Hugs and kisses from Madagascar! Hope everyone is having loads of fun!
Yours,
Tara Magnolia
~Family I work with a lot, gardening, rice farming, hanging out. This is a classic Malagasy picture....stand there and whatever you do, don't smile.~Some girls charing a cultural dance on July 26, Madagascar's Independence Day and a big party day around the island.
~My lighthouse lemurs.
~The Cirque Rouge with my counterpart, Senator Bachir (center), and two friends, Farida and Faly. Fabulous crossbedding at this site. 
~The tamin-bary (rice paddy) I'm usually to be found at, the ladies who taught me how to transplant rice, and the view from my garden. See all those mango trees? Next month, baby!
~My house. Pretty adorable huh?
I love you all! Hugs and kisses from Madagascar! Hope everyone is having loads of fun!
Yours,
Tara Magnolia
Saturday, August 2, 2008
Dentists, Dinosaurs, and Demonstrations
Salamo! Man, things are really moving along here in Madagascar...I've just hit the three month mark as a PCV! Too much has happened over the last few weeks to go into a lengthy journalist account :) so today I'm going to try a new approach and highlight some of the most exciting events and biggest successes of July in Katsepy Part 2...coming to you from the Madagascar's sunny west coast...complete with a picture! ( slower-than-
molasses-photo-uploading and the largeness of my photos dictates this singularity...working on fixing this) Events listed in chronological order. :)
~Tara
PS. G'ma and G'pa K and Tiffany...I received your packages. Thank you so much...you rock! Letters are on their way.
molasses-photo-uploading and the largeness of my photos dictates this singularity...working on fixing this) Events listed in chronological order. :)
- Fitampoha in Mahajanga. My counterpart took me to this annual Sakalava cultural festival where the Sakalava royal family washes some of the remains of the first Sakalava king
in Madagascar. Everyone was dressed in their most extravagant lambas, there was a parade, dancing, singing, and even trombas (Sakalava fomba where a person is 'possessed' by the deceased and relays messages from beyond to the crowd watching...pretty wild). And if this picture would ever upload, you'd see that I was dressed and prepped by some ladies from my town to 'fit in' as best as possible. Although in my opinion, braided hair, salovana and kisaly only served to make me stick out more, especially while walking through the city of Mahajanga before arriving at the festival. Embarrassing? Maybe. Ridiculous? Probably. A moment to embrace and be proud of for all its embarrassing ridiculousness and total uniqueness? Definitely. And check out the beauty of my counterpart's wife (left) and the Sakalava princess (right).
- Stony Brook Dental Team visit to Katsepy was a great week complete with lots of conversations in English (!) and Malagasy, American food brought and shared by the team (oh peanut butter and pringles!), and more tooth extractions than I thought possible (in the thousands - top single mouth record:24 teeth! holy cow!). The team visited Katsepy last after a month of visits to rural villages and next to free dental care for those brave and smart enough to see this group of blue scrub cloaked, 'headlamp' wearing Americans. I helped out where I could...roughly translating, washing and sterilizing the instruments (a somewhat surreal transformation of my beaker and pipet tip washing days in the geochemistry lab), showing off Katsepy and the local lighthouse lemur family, and I even extracted a tooth...a nice loose lower incisor, right in front! The team did tremendous work and deserves much appreciation.
- I finally made it to the dinosaur site! No paleo-ing this time, but rather site development with the PC Environmental Program Associate Director, Stanislas. As the closest volunteer to the site, I'll be helping prepare the site for a new PCV coming with next year's Environment group. The visit was a lot of fun, with a community meeting under a tree, a visit to the exhibit and lots of shared enthusiasm between the village, the Ankizy Fund and Peace Corps. Felt very Peace Corps throughout.
- After Berivotra, Stan and super cool PC driver, Doda, came up to Katsepy with me to check things out at my site, and assess my progress thus far. Timing could not have been more perfect. The first day I was able to walk around town (which was positively buzzing with Sobahya Festival prep and people) with Stan, introducing him to my friends and mpiara-miasa's (people I work with), giving him a sneek peek of the work I'd done for the solar cooking demonstration, and getting advice about my garden and techniques/variations I can try next. It was great...not only was Stan very impressed with my integration and project progress so far, but he was very supportive and encouraging, giving great feedback on my first three months at site. Although, I have a number of 'independent' research projects under my belt, nothing has felt as truly independent as my PC work so far. Which can be somewhat liberating, but makes it hard to gauge your progress and recieve advice or answers to the many questions I have here in Katsepy. It was a very positive experience to have Stan there at site, especially the following day for the actual cooking demonstration!
- Sobahya and solar cooking/drying demo was incredible! Not only did tons of people pass by, but after they tried my free solar-baked cookies and cake, were genuinely interested in the cookers. I had built three for the demonstration and had food out on the drying rack as well. It is amazing...I've been talking about solar cooking since my arrival, but only after seeing the cookers, tasting the masaka (done) food, and feeling the heat from the pots did people really believe and begin to get excited. It was so fun...I was having a blast sharing with the crowd gathered around with the help of Doda (my Malagasy is still elementary at best), and even better was when a Malagasy person who had already heard the speel would begin explaining it to the next person to show up at my stand. I had handouts in Malagasy to give out, so hopefully the word will be spreading. With a few smaller cooking and oven building classes, I hope to actually get some cookers made and in use! How exciting...the demo, especially with PC's, my community's and my counterpart's presence and support was the perfect climax to my first three months at site.
- And Sobahya wasn't all 'work' either! Before the demo, all the lehibe's (big important people...Sakalava queen, mayor, etc) showed up, gave speeches, and we all enjoyed a number of performances from Malagasy and Comorian dancing and singing groups. And after the demo, I got to enjoy street side brochettes with my Malagasy friends and go out dancing...Malagasy singer Wawa was in Katsepy for the festival and they put on a awesome show from 10 at night until 4 in the morning! It was crazy...more people than I thought could fit in Katsepy dancing and celebrating...and with a number of friends for dance partners, I no longer felt like that awkward new girl at the school dance. :) Over a week later, and Katsepy is still in recovery from this full-out festival and Sakalava cultural event.
- I have beans in my garden! And cucumbers that should be ready for the eating in a week or so! Produce never tasted so fresh and delicious! And I get to experience the satisfaction of being at least somewhat competent in the world of organic gardening. Course, I need to try again with peppers and tomatoes, but hey, this is a learning process, right?!
- I have a site partner, of sorts! I just got to meet Lauren, the new Education Volunteer who is currently in training, but will be opening a new site in a village close to me starting at the end of this month. She passed through Katsepy on her way to visit Mitsinjo, and we hit it off right away. Somewhat isolated from the rest of Peace Corps Volunteers here in Katsepy, it will be great fun to have a friend close by to share the next two years, and to share the unique and culturally rich region I am luckly enough to live in.
~Tara
PS. G'ma and G'pa K and Tiffany...I received your packages. Thank you so much...you rock! Letters are on their way.
Monday, July 14, 2008
Salama Tsara! Good Health!
Well, good news…I got my first, and hopefully last, case of malaria and after a only a few physical and emotional breakdowns and a week of just laying around, I got over it just fine with the help of a lovely drug, Coartem. The experience was not my favorite so far in Madagascar, but I can definitely say I still learned a lot:
1. Malaria sucks…wear bug spray more often. But it’s bearable.
2. Who I can count on if something bad happens again – who is going to bring me food, fetch water for me, water my plants in the garden, check up on me. It was a huge comfort to know that I wasn’t alone or forgotten about and that I have an extended Malagasy family willing and happy to take care of me. :)
3. Peace Corps provides great medical care and meds, but at site, you’re pretty much on your own for monitoring and treating your own health. First time it hit me how separated I am from the really important ‘conveniences’ of American life.
4. There are going to be times when I won’t be making progress in my projects, whether due to sickness or other reasons, and this is OKAY (eg. I shouldn’t get so frustrated). Set backs are inevitable, and flexibility and adjustment to the situation is the name of the game.
5. Anna Karenina is a good book and you can make it far in six days with nothing to do and when lying down is the least painful position (thanks Kurt and Gretchen for the Thermarest…made lying on my relatively cooler floor much better). :)
6. My house geckos are also fun to watch, if you have the time. I saw one ‘eat’ a beetle bigger than its head…and with the huge bug wiggling around and hanging out of its mouth it was still able to run vertically up the wall…that’s amazing!
7. I don’t miss TV at all, but I do miss couches.
And now, over a week later, I’m feeling great and have already gotten back on track with my projects. Besides how could I really pass two years in Madagascar without getting some endemic mosquito-born illness…it just wouldn’t be Peace Corps otherwise! And just so you know, I do take anti-malarial meds and sleep under a mosquito net…I guess I just got unlucky this once.
Since then, I’ve been back to work in my garden and have built a rather elaborate solar food dryer. I was hoping to build something simpler and less intimidating for a Malagasy person, but my neighbor was helping me, so I kind-of had to go with the flow. Excited and with plenty of supplies, he helped me build a really good-looking and totally functional dryer…I’ve already been snacking on dried papaya and bananas. So, things are shaping up nicely for the solar cooking/drying demonstration I will do in two weeks during Katsepy’s annual festival Sobahya. Can’t wait!
I had a great day this week, transplanting rice an a different rice paddy with one of my favorite ladies, Mama Saondra and her family…to get there you have to follow a ‘path’ submerged underwater through reeds and mangrove trees. This rice paddy is in a lovely little valley surrounded by mango, coconut, and cashew (yahoo!) trees. The men worked ahead of the women, preparing the muddy paddies for the little rice plants, and we women transplanted rice right behind them. As we worked, the women would chat and often sing, the children came along for the day and you could hear them playing and giggling in the trees, and the whole family operation of working the land and planting rice was truly remarkable. At noon, we washed the mud off our legs and arms in the stream and moved up slope to enjoy a delicious meal of rice and beans with coconut sauce, eaten Malagasy family style…one large plate, lots of spoons and circle around. After eating our fill, we took a rest in the shade, sleeping a bit, braiding hair, and eating kijavo (fresh coconut before we Americans would normally eat it…it is still soft, juicy and delicious…my latest food obsession here). Back to work in the afternoon, we finished a few more squares of the vast rice paddy and I got the chance to practice my Malagasy more and ask some important questions about their farming practices, expenses, and lifestyle. It was the perfect day to get me out of my getting over Malaria and losing language funk (I was feeling frustrated bc I was definitely Malagasy stupider after a week of no walking around and chatting).
In other news, I’m finally a published author! I just found out that our paper about a therapsid fossil found in Niger the year before last was published in the Journal of Vertebrate Paleontology. Yip-ee! If you have access to scientific literature, would you mind sending me the pdf? Thanks! Or any other interesting papers for that matter…or news in general…I’m definitely out of the loop here. And if you’re ambitious enough to send a package, I could definitely use some good reads…Dad, I still haven’t read The Once and Future King! And any other favorites would be much appreciated! And/or tasty American snacks and treats. :) Mom, I got your package and it is awesome! Thank you so much…I’m going to try hard to make the Twizzlers last. Thinking about everyone lots and love you all much! Thanks again for letters/emails/etc…it is wonderful to hear what everyone is up to. Hugs and kisses across the miles and miles!
~Ta-ra (draw out the ta- and put a big emphasis on the –ra)
1. Malaria sucks…wear bug spray more often. But it’s bearable.
2. Who I can count on if something bad happens again – who is going to bring me food, fetch water for me, water my plants in the garden, check up on me. It was a huge comfort to know that I wasn’t alone or forgotten about and that I have an extended Malagasy family willing and happy to take care of me. :)
3. Peace Corps provides great medical care and meds, but at site, you’re pretty much on your own for monitoring and treating your own health. First time it hit me how separated I am from the really important ‘conveniences’ of American life.
4. There are going to be times when I won’t be making progress in my projects, whether due to sickness or other reasons, and this is OKAY (eg. I shouldn’t get so frustrated). Set backs are inevitable, and flexibility and adjustment to the situation is the name of the game.
5. Anna Karenina is a good book and you can make it far in six days with nothing to do and when lying down is the least painful position (thanks Kurt and Gretchen for the Thermarest…made lying on my relatively cooler floor much better). :)
6. My house geckos are also fun to watch, if you have the time. I saw one ‘eat’ a beetle bigger than its head…and with the huge bug wiggling around and hanging out of its mouth it was still able to run vertically up the wall…that’s amazing!
7. I don’t miss TV at all, but I do miss couches.
And now, over a week later, I’m feeling great and have already gotten back on track with my projects. Besides how could I really pass two years in Madagascar without getting some endemic mosquito-born illness…it just wouldn’t be Peace Corps otherwise! And just so you know, I do take anti-malarial meds and sleep under a mosquito net…I guess I just got unlucky this once.
Since then, I’ve been back to work in my garden and have built a rather elaborate solar food dryer. I was hoping to build something simpler and less intimidating for a Malagasy person, but my neighbor was helping me, so I kind-of had to go with the flow. Excited and with plenty of supplies, he helped me build a really good-looking and totally functional dryer…I’ve already been snacking on dried papaya and bananas. So, things are shaping up nicely for the solar cooking/drying demonstration I will do in two weeks during Katsepy’s annual festival Sobahya. Can’t wait!
I had a great day this week, transplanting rice an a different rice paddy with one of my favorite ladies, Mama Saondra and her family…to get there you have to follow a ‘path’ submerged underwater through reeds and mangrove trees. This rice paddy is in a lovely little valley surrounded by mango, coconut, and cashew (yahoo!) trees. The men worked ahead of the women, preparing the muddy paddies for the little rice plants, and we women transplanted rice right behind them. As we worked, the women would chat and often sing, the children came along for the day and you could hear them playing and giggling in the trees, and the whole family operation of working the land and planting rice was truly remarkable. At noon, we washed the mud off our legs and arms in the stream and moved up slope to enjoy a delicious meal of rice and beans with coconut sauce, eaten Malagasy family style…one large plate, lots of spoons and circle around. After eating our fill, we took a rest in the shade, sleeping a bit, braiding hair, and eating kijavo (fresh coconut before we Americans would normally eat it…it is still soft, juicy and delicious…my latest food obsession here). Back to work in the afternoon, we finished a few more squares of the vast rice paddy and I got the chance to practice my Malagasy more and ask some important questions about their farming practices, expenses, and lifestyle. It was the perfect day to get me out of my getting over Malaria and losing language funk (I was feeling frustrated bc I was definitely Malagasy stupider after a week of no walking around and chatting).
In other news, I’m finally a published author! I just found out that our paper about a therapsid fossil found in Niger the year before last was published in the Journal of Vertebrate Paleontology. Yip-ee! If you have access to scientific literature, would you mind sending me the pdf? Thanks! Or any other interesting papers for that matter…or news in general…I’m definitely out of the loop here. And if you’re ambitious enough to send a package, I could definitely use some good reads…Dad, I still haven’t read The Once and Future King! And any other favorites would be much appreciated! And/or tasty American snacks and treats. :) Mom, I got your package and it is awesome! Thank you so much…I’m going to try hard to make the Twizzlers last. Thinking about everyone lots and love you all much! Thanks again for letters/emails/etc…it is wonderful to hear what everyone is up to. Hugs and kisses across the miles and miles!
~Ta-ra (draw out the ta- and put a big emphasis on the –ra)
Monday, June 23, 2008
What does a PCV do in Katsepy?
Salama daholo! Ino voavoa? Maresaka? I'm a little bummed, because I had some awesome pictures to post of my garden, house, and of Peace Corps Volunteer me, but due to a certain lacking usb port on this ancient computer, photos are a no-go. So you'll have to settle for using your imagination...my carrots, radishes, cucumbers and beans are about yah-tall and my lettuce and melons are just poking their heads out of the ground against a backdrop of rich green rice paddies, mango and coconut tress; my house is a little bunglow sort with red windows and door, tin and wood siding and tin roof; and I'm pretty much the same, except with noteably wilder hair, a wicked tan, and according to my villagers (they say this with pride), a little bit plumper - I'm not sure I agree with this last statement, but perhaps I should cut back on the coconut enhanced rice, bread and kabaka (side dishes) :) and up the number of bikerides I take to the district lighthouse where I catch the breeze up high and chill with my fellow primates, the family of six sifaka that live in the baobob trees there.
So, I believe last post I promised a lowdown on my 'job' there, so here goes:
1. I garden, experimenting with new vegetables not yet grow in my region and with techiniques not yet used. My plot is quite large, and I'm slowly preparing the soil and adding raised bed after raised bed, so it is definitely a work in progress and I've much to learn still. But, I've already had the joy to discover that I, in fact, love gardening! Totally intimidated at first, both by the techniques and the amount of physical labor input needed, now I'm thrilled to spend the day in my garden watering my new little plants and working the soil. All that, and hopefully in a couple months I'll have all sorts of organically homegrown veges! Did I mention a big part of PC for me is reducing my ecological footprint on the earth...well, there you go!
2. Solar cooking and drying project. I've already built a very simple solar cooker with some cardboard, glue and aluminum foil that cooks like a dream...I've already impressed my neighbors by baking bread, cooking rice and even beans! That crazy shiney thing in my yard really does serve a function. And I can't think of anything more practical in this incredibly sunny, hot, haven't seen rain yet home of mine. I'm also in the process of building a solar dryer in anticipation for the mango season. Next step, cooking 'class' with the town women's association and a demonstration at the town's big festival next month.
3. Teaching. In September, when school starts again, I will officially begin my environmental education program at the town elementary and middle school, with plans for a school garden/tree nursery, and hopes to start a science/nature club. Along with teaching gardening techniques and introducing new and delicious veges :), I will be doing ecology and conservation lessons, all with a little bit of english (what I get asked on a daily basis to teach). Any lesson plan ideas, advice from those already experienced at teaching, etc, please do share. I'm already starting to plan a bit. In addition to the youngsters, I'll probably be holding English classes maybe once a week for interested adults too.
4. Geography/Map project! Not an official project, just something on the side I'd like to do and would love your, yes you!, help with. I've got a giant map of the world and bunch of kids who don't know about much outside of Katsepy but are interested in learning - all that's missing are pictures of the world to share with them! So next time you run across some cool photos of people, landscape, culture of the world (even including ridiculous American pop culture) in your lastest issue of National Geographic or US Weekly, please think of the 'poor children of Madagascar' and send 'em my way (it'd be great too if you'd also think of your poor friend Tara who misses you terribly and send a letter update along with the pics :)). Thanks everyone...I think this would be really cool and definitely more exciting for the kids to look at than me eating dinner (which they frequently stop by in the evenings to do...yes, Americans can eat rice too).
5. Misc. development projects. UNICEF is looking at funding a youth center in Katsepty, a group of dentists will be visiting the town next month (armed with toothbrushes and anti-decay whatever I hope...this group is headed up by a non-dentist who none-the-less frequently finds the need to use dental tools I imagine as he prepares his Madagascar fossils and someone who I hope to be working with often over the next two years, paleontologist David Krause...check out the Ankizy Fund for more info), and the next town over has a local bird conservation effort underway that focuses not only on wildlife protection but also youth education. Perfect!
***Disclaimer...this is where I start to get a little wordy...read at your leisure, maybe with a cup of tea to stay focused...okay, good luck!***
So, getting the idea yet? Honestly, I frequently find my head overflowing with all sorts of ideas, including girl's club, a library, ecotourism, but I have to keep reminding myself to slow down and focus on the basics, such as what the heck is Peace Corps and why exactly is this little white girl living with us...I'm pretty sure that piece of me is still a big question mark for my community. They know they like me, but why I'm farming vegetables and transplanting rice, hmmm.... :) Fortunately, while my Malagasy is steadily improving, at this point it is still an effective barrier against letting myself get carried away. That said, the potential for projects here in Katsepy is immense. Within the next month I will begin holding meetings with community members and farmers to determine where felt needs and desires lie and begin to prioritize these needs to insure that my work here is the most efficient and effective it can be. Also, the stronger the involvement and enthusiasm for a project from the community, the more sustainable, and hopefully longlasting the project will be. I'm valuing of myself less as a teacher (because honestly, how could I possibly hold anywhere near the amount of knowledge as a local farmer or community member) and more as a venue for new innovations and techniques that can be used to improve/modify existing techniques, and as an experimentor who can afford to take risks and make mistakes while learning (although I'm living relatively simply on about $200-300 a month, this is still a fortune compared to the avg Katsepy family). The village is poor, the children are malnourished, the school is not a simulating or encouraging learning environment, and the landscape, while beautiful is heavily degraded. And yet the people are happy, among the most friendly and welcoming I've ever met, always willing to share a meal, sit and talk, patiently teach me new words, braid my white girl hair (and yes, I do in fact look ridiculous in cornrows, but the town loves it and it is cool social 'event'). I have much to learn from my community (already have learned how to cook just about anything with cococut, gut and descale a fish, appreciate just sitting and watching, and the kids have taught me how to make these cool little balls and 'windmills' out of grass that result in all sorts of fun games). I only hope that I can in return equally teach, share, and enrich their lives and in particular encourage and educate youngsters so they can become the next motivators within the community.
Okay, I'm getting long winded and carried away again...these are big hopes for someone who can just barely hold a full-on Malagasy conversation, but I'm already feeling a sense of trust and acceptance from my community that is incredible. I have a couple ladies who I believe are becoming real friends, my favorite lady (who gives me papaya and home-made honey) has become Mama ani'Tara (women here are named after their oldest daughter) or to me, mamako Malagasy (my Malagasy mom), and if I don't walk my usually circuit for even one day, the next day everyone is like, ' Hey Tara! Where have you been-I haven't seen you in so long!'. I think they've come to expect me passing by and I have to admit nothing makes me happier than seeing a friend's face light up when they see me wander past and we spend the next few minutes catching up on the news for the day. A favorite moment... One day a lot (4) of vazaha (foreigners) were in town, and I was commenting on this to one of my Malagasy friends, informing her that although these were probably the people I had the most in common with in town, I couldn't speak a word to them! They were all French, didn't speak English (or Malagasy :)), and my French sucks to put it mildly. She laughed and said, 'Don't worry, you're only a vazaha on the outside cause you're white, on the inside, you're Malagasy'. Oh, my goodness, does it get better than that? (Do hope so...I've still go 22 months here. :))
And then just as I'm feeling comfortable and settled, inevitable something unexpected, bizarre and unique happens to remind me that I'm indeed in Madagascar where life is totally different and even the most ordinary experiences can occur in the most extraordinary setting...drinking tea from my thermos at the base of the lighthouse constructed by the French some time ago, still in use and powered by solar panels (which are protected from goats by a dilapitated fence of tree branches and grass rope) while I overlook a small grass hut village on the edge of a white sand beach facing the Mozambique Channel. And vice versa, where the most usual everyday event can occur in the craziest way...buying meat (there is a story for you one day) or my ferry ride across the bay to Mahajanga yesterday, where I probably could have lifted my feet and remained in place it was so crowded...sandwiched between about a 5 people, a basket full of chickens, a few loose ones, and a bicycle with a dead pig (not joking) tied to the back made it hands down the most entertaining transportion experiences thus far. And I'm enjoying every moment of my Madagascar life (well almost - there are definitely a few hard times or things I only enjoy in retrospect, usually due to their inherent irony or value as a 'cultural learning experience'). Remembering that I graduated a little over a year ago, I doubt I had any idea then what my Peace Corps life would have in store for me, but now, firmly placed in it, I can hardly imagine being anywhere else or doing anything different at this point in my life. Ahhh!
Well, I do believe I've rambled on long enough, and if you have made it this far (especially without pictures to fuel your interest!) you are a real trooper. I love you all very much! Hope everyone is doing marvelously! Keep the letters coming...got two today (thanks Grandparents Kunas and Chris!) ...they totally make my day and I've got the time to write back (Shiloh, Smiley's, Kunas', Lesan's, Robyn, expect letters 'soonish'...not sure how long post takes from here). Think of you often and sending love, hugs and kisses your way!
Peace,
~Tara Magnolia
So, I believe last post I promised a lowdown on my 'job' there, so here goes:
1. I garden, experimenting with new vegetables not yet grow in my region and with techiniques not yet used. My plot is quite large, and I'm slowly preparing the soil and adding raised bed after raised bed, so it is definitely a work in progress and I've much to learn still. But, I've already had the joy to discover that I, in fact, love gardening! Totally intimidated at first, both by the techniques and the amount of physical labor input needed, now I'm thrilled to spend the day in my garden watering my new little plants and working the soil. All that, and hopefully in a couple months I'll have all sorts of organically homegrown veges! Did I mention a big part of PC for me is reducing my ecological footprint on the earth...well, there you go!
2. Solar cooking and drying project. I've already built a very simple solar cooker with some cardboard, glue and aluminum foil that cooks like a dream...I've already impressed my neighbors by baking bread, cooking rice and even beans! That crazy shiney thing in my yard really does serve a function. And I can't think of anything more practical in this incredibly sunny, hot, haven't seen rain yet home of mine. I'm also in the process of building a solar dryer in anticipation for the mango season. Next step, cooking 'class' with the town women's association and a demonstration at the town's big festival next month.
3. Teaching. In September, when school starts again, I will officially begin my environmental education program at the town elementary and middle school, with plans for a school garden/tree nursery, and hopes to start a science/nature club. Along with teaching gardening techniques and introducing new and delicious veges :), I will be doing ecology and conservation lessons, all with a little bit of english (what I get asked on a daily basis to teach). Any lesson plan ideas, advice from those already experienced at teaching, etc, please do share. I'm already starting to plan a bit. In addition to the youngsters, I'll probably be holding English classes maybe once a week for interested adults too.
4. Geography/Map project! Not an official project, just something on the side I'd like to do and would love your, yes you!, help with. I've got a giant map of the world and bunch of kids who don't know about much outside of Katsepy but are interested in learning - all that's missing are pictures of the world to share with them! So next time you run across some cool photos of people, landscape, culture of the world (even including ridiculous American pop culture) in your lastest issue of National Geographic or US Weekly, please think of the 'poor children of Madagascar' and send 'em my way (it'd be great too if you'd also think of your poor friend Tara who misses you terribly and send a letter update along with the pics :)). Thanks everyone...I think this would be really cool and definitely more exciting for the kids to look at than me eating dinner (which they frequently stop by in the evenings to do...yes, Americans can eat rice too).
5. Misc. development projects. UNICEF is looking at funding a youth center in Katsepty, a group of dentists will be visiting the town next month (armed with toothbrushes and anti-decay whatever I hope...this group is headed up by a non-dentist who none-the-less frequently finds the need to use dental tools I imagine as he prepares his Madagascar fossils and someone who I hope to be working with often over the next two years, paleontologist David Krause...check out the Ankizy Fund for more info), and the next town over has a local bird conservation effort underway that focuses not only on wildlife protection but also youth education. Perfect!
***Disclaimer...this is where I start to get a little wordy...read at your leisure, maybe with a cup of tea to stay focused...okay, good luck!***
So, getting the idea yet? Honestly, I frequently find my head overflowing with all sorts of ideas, including girl's club, a library, ecotourism, but I have to keep reminding myself to slow down and focus on the basics, such as what the heck is Peace Corps and why exactly is this little white girl living with us...I'm pretty sure that piece of me is still a big question mark for my community. They know they like me, but why I'm farming vegetables and transplanting rice, hmmm.... :) Fortunately, while my Malagasy is steadily improving, at this point it is still an effective barrier against letting myself get carried away. That said, the potential for projects here in Katsepy is immense. Within the next month I will begin holding meetings with community members and farmers to determine where felt needs and desires lie and begin to prioritize these needs to insure that my work here is the most efficient and effective it can be. Also, the stronger the involvement and enthusiasm for a project from the community, the more sustainable, and hopefully longlasting the project will be. I'm valuing of myself less as a teacher (because honestly, how could I possibly hold anywhere near the amount of knowledge as a local farmer or community member) and more as a venue for new innovations and techniques that can be used to improve/modify existing techniques, and as an experimentor who can afford to take risks and make mistakes while learning (although I'm living relatively simply on about $200-300 a month, this is still a fortune compared to the avg Katsepy family). The village is poor, the children are malnourished, the school is not a simulating or encouraging learning environment, and the landscape, while beautiful is heavily degraded. And yet the people are happy, among the most friendly and welcoming I've ever met, always willing to share a meal, sit and talk, patiently teach me new words, braid my white girl hair (and yes, I do in fact look ridiculous in cornrows, but the town loves it and it is cool social 'event'). I have much to learn from my community (already have learned how to cook just about anything with cococut, gut and descale a fish, appreciate just sitting and watching, and the kids have taught me how to make these cool little balls and 'windmills' out of grass that result in all sorts of fun games). I only hope that I can in return equally teach, share, and enrich their lives and in particular encourage and educate youngsters so they can become the next motivators within the community.
Okay, I'm getting long winded and carried away again...these are big hopes for someone who can just barely hold a full-on Malagasy conversation, but I'm already feeling a sense of trust and acceptance from my community that is incredible. I have a couple ladies who I believe are becoming real friends, my favorite lady (who gives me papaya and home-made honey) has become Mama ani'Tara (women here are named after their oldest daughter) or to me, mamako Malagasy (my Malagasy mom), and if I don't walk my usually circuit for even one day, the next day everyone is like, ' Hey Tara! Where have you been-I haven't seen you in so long!'. I think they've come to expect me passing by and I have to admit nothing makes me happier than seeing a friend's face light up when they see me wander past and we spend the next few minutes catching up on the news for the day. A favorite moment... One day a lot (4) of vazaha (foreigners) were in town, and I was commenting on this to one of my Malagasy friends, informing her that although these were probably the people I had the most in common with in town, I couldn't speak a word to them! They were all French, didn't speak English (or Malagasy :)), and my French sucks to put it mildly. She laughed and said, 'Don't worry, you're only a vazaha on the outside cause you're white, on the inside, you're Malagasy'. Oh, my goodness, does it get better than that? (Do hope so...I've still go 22 months here. :))
And then just as I'm feeling comfortable and settled, inevitable something unexpected, bizarre and unique happens to remind me that I'm indeed in Madagascar where life is totally different and even the most ordinary experiences can occur in the most extraordinary setting...drinking tea from my thermos at the base of the lighthouse constructed by the French some time ago, still in use and powered by solar panels (which are protected from goats by a dilapitated fence of tree branches and grass rope) while I overlook a small grass hut village on the edge of a white sand beach facing the Mozambique Channel. And vice versa, where the most usual everyday event can occur in the craziest way...buying meat (there is a story for you one day) or my ferry ride across the bay to Mahajanga yesterday, where I probably could have lifted my feet and remained in place it was so crowded...sandwiched between about a 5 people, a basket full of chickens, a few loose ones, and a bicycle with a dead pig (not joking) tied to the back made it hands down the most entertaining transportion experiences thus far. And I'm enjoying every moment of my Madagascar life (well almost - there are definitely a few hard times or things I only enjoy in retrospect, usually due to their inherent irony or value as a 'cultural learning experience'). Remembering that I graduated a little over a year ago, I doubt I had any idea then what my Peace Corps life would have in store for me, but now, firmly placed in it, I can hardly imagine being anywhere else or doing anything different at this point in my life. Ahhh!
Well, I do believe I've rambled on long enough, and if you have made it this far (especially without pictures to fuel your interest!) you are a real trooper. I love you all very much! Hope everyone is doing marvelously! Keep the letters coming...got two today (thanks Grandparents Kunas and Chris!) ...they totally make my day and I've got the time to write back (Shiloh, Smiley's, Kunas', Lesan's, Robyn, expect letters 'soonish'...not sure how long post takes from here). Think of you often and sending love, hugs and kisses your way!
Peace,
~Tara Magnolia
Friday, May 23, 2008
Week 3...Fety, Pictures and Address!
So, I've officially been at site for three weeks now and am loving it! Finally unpacked and adjusting to up at 5:30, bed by 9 with walking, talking, working and often a surprise or two in between, life is moving along in Katsepy. Stories...last week, the women's group in my community had a meeting and I had asked to be invited. So, they pick me up on their way and turns out the meeting was entirely doing Malagasy dances. They crank up the generator, blast the music and for the next couple hours they teach me Malagasy dances (even better, specific to my region). Thank goodness for my dance background, so I was able to pick up the moves no problem, but I will never be able to move my hips like they do. The next day they had a 'meeting' again, so after a mo
rning working in my garden, I show up and we dance and then there is some talk about a ball, most of which I don't understand, but catch that something is happening the next morning in town...a women's fety (party/festival). So the next morning I show up to check things out...they're not ready yet, but they're working on something...come back at 1. I come back at 1, still not ready yet, but a corner of town has been blocked off and decorated. Too late to work in the garden, so I do my usual walk around and talk with some of the friends I am making in town. Finally 5 o'clock rolls around and someones comes up to me asking, "Where is your lamba (Malagasy sarong), you need it for the fety?" I think okay, go home, grab the beautiful lamba I was given during site visit and return. Next thing I know, the 'fety' has filled up with spectators, I'm dressed up Sakalava (tribe/culture of my region) style in my lamba and performing the dances with the women. It was completely surprising and wonderful! They continued without me with an even more impressive rice pounding dance after. It was amazing. Later on in the evening we did have a proper ball...with everyone in town dancing...old to young. The community is so culturally rich and in enjoyment of life. I feel very lucky to get to experience it and hopefully become a part of it all over the next two years. I'm still hitting many languages walls, but hopefully I will get a tutor soon and that will improve too. And I'm not quite used to sharing my space and privacy with both curious Malagasy people showing up at my house to 'talk' (or sit and stare) and critters...the lizards are totally cool, giant incredibly fast wolf spiders not. The other night I made so much noise trying to kill one on my tin wall that my neighbor came over to check on me...armed with my headlamp and a giant stick and telling her that it was 'just' a spider, I'm not sure what she thought. :) Despite my oddities and lack of simple knowledge (Here Tara, why don't you just let me crack that coconut open for you, or this is how you cook a fish, or how you did a hole), I think that I'm definitely working my way into the community...the fact that it takes me close to an hour to walk the equivalent of four blocks around my town because everyone talks with me I think is a good sign. :) I promise I do work too, more on my 'job' will have to be the topic of my next post. Today I'm in the big city again and have meet some more wonderful new volunteers who also bank in Majunga. And I have set up a post office box!
**My address now is:
PCV Tara Smiley
BP 200
Mahajanga Principle 401
Madagascar
So enjoy a few pictures from my site...scenes from town and the women's fety. It is lunch time and I'm about starved for some rice, so I'm out, but please write...letters and emails are wonderful! I'm just as curious to hear how everyone back home is doing...and thanks again to those who have already been in touch...letters are on their way! I love you all so much and miss you!
~Tara
Friday, May 9, 2008
A Volunteer...and Katsepy Resident!
Well, it has been so long since I've last been able to post, I'm not even sure where to begin. Last week marked the end of training, a bittersweet good-bye to my Malagasy homestay family and fellow trainees (and now after ten weeks together very close friends) and a meaningful swearing in ceremony in Tana. The transition into Volunteer life began with a quick move into my new home of Katsepy, where I have been beginning the adjustment to a new, very hot, very beachy lifestyle. :) My counterpart (main go-to person to work with at my site) is a former Malagasy senator and an amazing resource and person - very well educated and travelled and, still at 70, going strong and working hard to improve the lives of the people in Katsepy, the town his family comes from and to represent and share the Sakalava culture of the region. He knows everyone and is incredibly well respected and will be a great resource for me for the next two years. He and the community have provided me with a beautiful little home and a rather large gardening plot. Wednesday I had the tremendous experience of transplanting rice seedlings in the rice paddies near my garden plot. Listening to the chatter of the two Malagasy women who farm there and patiently taught me how to do the transplanting as I squished calf deep, pudding-like mud between my toes and tried to keep from falling face first into the newly planted rice, I couldn't help but feel in awe of the moment. Of course, this excitement was mixed with the frustration of understanding very little of the chattering going on around me, but I know that the language will improve with time...little by little I will become tamana tsara (well settled). The tremendous generousity and welcoming nature of the Malagasy people, especially in my community, is already helping me to feel at home. Every evening (all 7 of them now :) I try to make the rounds through Katsepy - hit up Mama Jackie's (taught me how to make coconut bread the other day), wander through the little market (this is easy and fun because all we talk about is food and that is about the extent of my vocab anyway) and say hello to everyone I pass (they get a huge kick out of the fact that I know how to say hello in the local dialect and ask what's up). I gave a small speech at the town meeting where my counterpart and the mayor introduced me to everyone and so they all think I'm super mahay (smart - ha! little do they know I just nod and smile) and like to tell me so, which is a huge confidence booster. I've already aquired some teenage sidekicks who help me find my way around (not hard...Katsepy has all of two main 'roads') and show me where to buy this and that. And this is were I should mention how incredibly beautiful my site is...coconut trees everywhere...it truly is a beach paradise. Things I like...picking fresh fruit off the trees as you walk by and eating it on the spot, how unnecessary shoes are, the wind that comes off the sea and provides relief from the incredibly warm climate here on the west coast, the 'siesta' time after lunch when it is too hot to do any work and instead you lay out in your yard (sand of course) on a straw mat which you occasionally have to move to keep it in the shade, the beautiful lambas (sarongs) the women wear and I like to slip into to keep cool after my evening bucket shower while I cook dinner (rice of course), and the wide open possibilities of new friends, new culture, new learning experiences, and a new outlook on life as a Peace Corps Volunteer living and working in Madagascar. I have so much to learn and discover and do, whew it is all at once overwhelming, exciting and still totally crazy.
Just a couple notes to round up training...my stage (group of trainees) was incredible...I couldn't have asked for a better group of people to share the last ten weeks and the next two year with. And now everyone is living in beautiful, interesting and unique places across Madagascar...lots of places and people to visit! Our last tech trip was to a natural park where, yes I saw lemurs in the wild (and lizards, frogs, and chamelons)! The rainforest here is incredible. If Peace Corps had let me, or at least taken their eyes off me for more than a couple minutes, I'm pretty sure I would have headed off to explore and sleep in the mossy undergrowth for a couple weeks. My birthday was very fun, despite having language class all day. We celebrated in style with Malagasy cake, awesome homemade cards, and lots of hugs. My family even gave me a new lamba. It was a great way, and place, with great people to turn 24. We held a big picnic to say good-bye to our families in Mahitsitady, but hopefully I'll be back again sometime in the next two years to see my little sister again. Swearing in (the official ceremony where we take our Volunteer oaths) was a huge success with a fantastic speech in Malagasy from one of our very own - way to represent Brendan! And the last days together were spent cramming in last minute tech knowledge and language and the last nights talking, dancing and enjoying. We even had a talent show...another former dancer in the group, Katherine and I choregraphed and performed a 'Malagasy' dance. It was all fantastic.
Hmmm...something has interrupted the uploading of my pictures. And I've already been online too long, but what is up already are some pictures of my Malagasy homestay family...very wonderful! Our stage has created a group blog at http://www.dagudiaries.blogspot.com/ which you should check out for more insight into life as a volunteer in Madagascar and pictures as well as links to the blogs of others in my stage that are better at posting pictures than I have been. Please enjoy! And write often. Sorry to be so absent, but now I should be making the trip into Majunga to bank/internet twice a month. More pictures and stories to come! I love you all very much and am looking forward to hearing more about life back state-side. Congrats again to Lindsay and Aaron! Hope married life rocks so far. Lots of love, hugs, kisses and thoughts. And as before, know that I am very happy here and really enjoying my experience thus far. With an amazing support system both from home, here in Madagascar and in my community, this will become my home in no time. Love you!
~Tara
Friday, March 28, 2008
Akory Haly!
Salama! I hope everyone back home stateside (and elsewhere) is doing wonderfully. Same situation as the last post, but I've got a full belly of cheese (yes! cheese!) pizza and a little more patience (or maybe my finger have forgotten how to type anyway). Life on the red island continues to progress in the most wonderful of ways (and amazingly quickly). The last couple weeks have passed with more language and technical training, somewhat less awkward dinnertime conversations with my family (by the way, I live with an older couple - 50's - their son and his wife and their almost two yr old daughter - who is just about the most adorable thing I've laid eyes on - I might have to steal her away to site with me - my family is wonderful, extremely patient, and takes great care of me, and my mom's mofo akondro (banana bread) is about the best thing ever - she is teaching me to cook)....okay, where was I...the last couple weeks have passed with a crazy Easter celebration/picnic at the lake (after the longest most uncomfortable four hours at church) with the whole town and fianakaviana ny mamako betseka (loads of my mom's family), continued strengthening of my friendships with the other trainees in my stage (all incredible - talented, funny, smart, supportive), and a daily building of enthusiaism, excitement and positivity. Faly lehibe aho (I'm so happy!). And this all leads up to yesterday...probably the biggest day yet (and that is saying a lot), when I met the first member of my future community. Called Partner's Day, one person from our site travels down to Tana to meet us, do a workshop, and then take us back to our site to check things out for a couple days and begin meeting people. My 'partner' is a farmer from Katsepy, very nice, and turns out speaks a dialect quite different from what I've been learning (the steep - really almost vertical - learning curve will continue for a long time I think - I'm up for it!). Tomorrow we'll have a 13 hour taxi-brousse (imagine being as uncomfortable as possible and then add in incredibly curvy roads) to Mahajanga to start peicing it all together. Then I ferry across the bay to see my home for the next two years for the first time! I'm so excited, I can't even describe it - take leaving the states and times it by twenty, and while you're at it do that for my overwhelmedness too! :) When I was leaving the states, two years seemed like nothing...now it seems like such a long time, but such a long time full of countless possibilities that I'm sure will ultimately fly by. I've been developing lots of potential project ideas/ambitions for my two years in Katsepy - it will be fantastic to actually see it and begin the process of determining how I can best help the community (and enjoy myself!) I'll be seeing my home - my Malagasy home - how crazy and super sweet is that! And all I've heard (from so many people) about Katsepy so far is how beautiful it is. And did I mention there is a paleontologist who does a lot of work nearby who I've been put in touch with and is enthusiastic about paleo and development projects - could it really been a more perfect fit? So, I have a feeling the next post will be very full! And with pictures! You have to see the kids here - they are awesome and are continually energizing me. Okay, time to share the computer. But first thanks so much for the letters that have been sent - my address is in the first post and if you write me, I'll write you back (sorry I don't have everyone's address already) - they totally make my day. And, I now have a cell phone - the number is 011261 32 5509 533 - that includes Mad country code. It is not often on or with reception, but just so you know! I've talked to a couple people already and am so happy to hear that everyone back home is doing well! I miss you all so much and think of you often - I can't wait to continue to share this experience with you! So much love to you all! OXOXOXOX
Peace,
Tara
Peace,
Tara
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Love to all! (I'm alive and doing wonderful!)
Hello all! Okay, I'm on a french keyboard, and there is quite the line of PCT's waiting for computer time after me, so please forgive the shortness of this post and any wierdness with wrong letters/characters. :) So, in short, things in Madagascar are wonderful! My training group, trainers, language teachers and Malagasy family are all super lovely people. Living with a Malagasy family is both a great learning experience and a huge challenge...but, my Malagasy gets better every day, and I'm totally digging the candle-lite evenings, rice for three meals a day every day, showers from a bucket, and I believe I've mastered the kabone (latrine). I'm getting super mahay (smart) with all sorts of gardening (including rice cropping) and am starting to figure out what environ. ed. actually means. :) And, I know where I will be living for the next two years...Katsepy! It is a beach village on the West Coast (closest big tozn is Mahajunga). It looks totally sweet.
I feel like there is so much I want to share, but I will hqve to do this more later...sorry I haven't been able to write sooner...we just arrived in Tana (the big city) last night...I can,t believe Iùve been gone for less than 3 weeks...America seems pretty far away to me now, and Iùm definitely loving the Malagasy immersion. Today we visited an amazing orphanage in Tana, and got to play with children all day...all I can say is that it was magical. Thanks for all the wonderful notes so far...I'm very happy, loving life, and staying healthy. Hopefully I'll have internet again in a couple more weeks, and Iùll write a better, less random post then, but I should prob share the computer. Thinking about you all lots! Love you so much!
~Tara Tsiky (Smile)
I feel like there is so much I want to share, but I will hqve to do this more later...sorry I haven't been able to write sooner...we just arrived in Tana (the big city) last night...I can,t believe Iùve been gone for less than 3 weeks...America seems pretty far away to me now, and Iùm definitely loving the Malagasy immersion. Today we visited an amazing orphanage in Tana, and got to play with children all day...all I can say is that it was magical. Thanks for all the wonderful notes so far...I'm very happy, loving life, and staying healthy. Hopefully I'll have internet again in a couple more weeks, and Iùll write a better, less random post then, but I should prob share the computer. Thinking about you all lots! Love you so much!
~Tara Tsiky (Smile)
Friday, February 15, 2008
Off to Madagascar We Go!
Hello Friends and Family!
Today is the day! After two great days of training in Washington, DC, I now have a 'somewhat' better idea of what to expect from the beginning of my Peace Corps adventure in Madagascar. Many more questions will get answered, I'm sure, once we arrive! My training group is wonderful so far - many interesting, talented, enthusiastic and motivated people to continue to get to know and share stories with. Everyone seems truly fitted for the Peace Corps and we all seem fitted for each other. There are 32 of us to join the 115 Volunteers already in country.
Anxiety and excitement has been building as we prepare to board our plane this afternoon. It will be a long 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, where we will spend the night and get ready to take off for Madagascar the very next morning. Our training site in Madagascar is 2 1/2 hours outside of Antananarivo and looks wonderful! I'm thrilled to begin meeting the Peace Corps staff and other Volunteers in country. Most exciting, or nerve-racking, of all, is that we will be directly dropped off at our new host families' homes that first evening. Communication will be interesting, I'm sure. :) And then training begins! As part of the Environmental Program in Madagascar, I will more specifically be an Environmental Education Volunteer. Feeling uncertain of what that means and what skills I will need, training will be an amazing and challenging three months - especially since we will be learning and adopting a whole new language and culture. Oh man though, I am so excited. If you know me at all, you know I'm sitting at the edge of my seat, mind racing and with the biggest smile on my face. Life couldn't feel more right (and crazy) than it does at this moment (although it will probably feel even crazier in just a day or two). Since we going directly to our training site upon arrival in Madagascar, we will have no contact with home for at least the first few weeks - no internet or phone! So, although I won't be able to post again for a bit, know that I am doing wonderfully with my new cohort of Peace Corps Trainees and in my new home, Madagascar! No news is the good news, and when I get to share with you again, well, that will be the best news.
Important things of note!
New email address: taramagnolia@gmail.com
Mailing address during training:
Bureau du Corps de la Paix
B. P. 12091
Post Zoom Ankorondrano
Antananarivo 101
Madagascar
Send me a letter and I'll write you back!
Also, thank you so much to all who has been my incredible support system as I prepared for this amazing adventure and opportunity. I couldn't have done it without all of my extraordinary friends and family. I'll be thinking of you always, and I can't wait to share my experience with you!
I love you!
Tara
Today is the day! After two great days of training in Washington, DC, I now have a 'somewhat' better idea of what to expect from the beginning of my Peace Corps adventure in Madagascar. Many more questions will get answered, I'm sure, once we arrive! My training group is wonderful so far - many interesting, talented, enthusiastic and motivated people to continue to get to know and share stories with. Everyone seems truly fitted for the Peace Corps and we all seem fitted for each other. There are 32 of us to join the 115 Volunteers already in country.
Anxiety and excitement has been building as we prepare to board our plane this afternoon. It will be a long 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa, where we will spend the night and get ready to take off for Madagascar the very next morning. Our training site in Madagascar is 2 1/2 hours outside of Antananarivo and looks wonderful! I'm thrilled to begin meeting the Peace Corps staff and other Volunteers in country. Most exciting, or nerve-racking, of all, is that we will be directly dropped off at our new host families' homes that first evening. Communication will be interesting, I'm sure. :) And then training begins! As part of the Environmental Program in Madagascar, I will more specifically be an Environmental Education Volunteer. Feeling uncertain of what that means and what skills I will need, training will be an amazing and challenging three months - especially since we will be learning and adopting a whole new language and culture. Oh man though, I am so excited. If you know me at all, you know I'm sitting at the edge of my seat, mind racing and with the biggest smile on my face. Life couldn't feel more right (and crazy) than it does at this moment (although it will probably feel even crazier in just a day or two). Since we going directly to our training site upon arrival in Madagascar, we will have no contact with home for at least the first few weeks - no internet or phone! So, although I won't be able to post again for a bit, know that I am doing wonderfully with my new cohort of Peace Corps Trainees and in my new home, Madagascar! No news is the good news, and when I get to share with you again, well, that will be the best news.
Important things of note!
New email address: taramagnolia@gmail.com
Mailing address during training:
Bureau du Corps de la Paix
B. P. 12091
Post Zoom Ankorondrano
Antananarivo 101
Madagascar
Send me a letter and I'll write you back!
Also, thank you so much to all who has been my incredible support system as I prepared for this amazing adventure and opportunity. I couldn't have done it without all of my extraordinary friends and family. I'll be thinking of you always, and I can't wait to share my experience with you!
I love you!
Tara
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